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 Monday, September 28, 2009
Confronting a Gallery's Pastel Objections
Posted by richard

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One of the goals many pastel painters have is to be represented by a nice gallery. We all seek validation for our efforts, and seeing our works nicely displayed, well illuminated, and — hopefully — sold is rewarding. Sadly, works under glass often face considerable prejudice from many galleries. Add to that the perceived fragility of pastel and this becomes even more of an issue. After many years of building gallery relationships, I have a few observations to share:
 
If a gallery represents a majority of works on canvas, they will be more receptive to displaying works that are presented in a similar fashion. Current trends are heavily weighted towards the plein air or Impressionist's frames of the early 1900s. Regions differ, so it's wise to visit a broad cross section of galleries to better see what kind of framing is typical. Since pastel has a close kinship to oil, both being opaque by nature and often applied with bold strokes, presenting it in a similar method to oil paintings can often open doors of opportunity that may be closed to a traditional mat and frame offering. (See my blog post from October 8, 2007, for more on that subject.)
 
The necessity of glass is the most frequently mentioned concern of most galleries. This is a two-fold issue: the reflective glare of glass and the additional difficulty of shipping a piece framed with glass. With the advent of anti-reflective glazing and museum glass, which incorporates UV protection, the first can easily be remedied. Paintings framed with these glass types are often hard to tell from other works on canvas. There's an added cost involved in using these glass products, but prices have been decreasing with the rise in demand. Ask your framer if they might pass on a discount if you buy in volume.

When dealing with the second issue, that of shipping, it's as simple as learning how to properly pack a painting under glass. With a little effort, this can easily be accomplished. I can attest to many pastel works having been shipped, both by myself and from galleries, with no damage. (See two previous posts on shipping methods from May 19, 2008 and May 27, 2008.)
 
The bottom-line, though, is that galleries will only sell what they believe in. If a gallery isn't interested in your work or isn't enthusiastic about pastel, don’t waste your time. Even if your work is displayed, the sales staff will undoubtedly steer patrons to other works. I have had galleries tell me that pastel simply doesn’t sell. This is ironic in the face of considerable sales volume from galleries that represent some of the best pastelists in the country. If a gallery simply isn’t interested in displaying works under glass, for whatever reason, there's no point in trying to convince them otherwise. If, on the other hand, they like your work and are sure it would sell but are concerned about the fact that it's pastel, a little education may convince them to give it a chance. And, if they present the work with confidence, their patrons will believe in it as well.
 
[pictured above] A pastel painting framed in a traditional oil painting manner with anti-reflection museum glass.




9/28/2009 9:47:48 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2]
 Monday, September 21, 2009
What’s In a Number? Selecting Your Pastel Palette
Posted by richard

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How many pastel sticks does one need to do a painting? This question frequently comes up among pastel artists and is a popular topic of discussion on community websites like Wet Canvas.

Pastel is unique among media in that it is applied dry. Wet media, like watercolor and oil, are easily intermixed, creating a variety of hues, values and chromas. Because of their abilities to mix pigments, allowing them to achieve a full color spectrum, wet-media painters can get by with as little as three tubes of color plus white. Because of pastel’s dry nature, however, mixing individual pastel sticks doesn’t produce the same results.

Layering one color on top of another and crosshatching techniques can expand pastels' range, but more than three sticks of color will be needed to produce satisfactory results. This leads us back to the question: How many pastels are enough? What a working palette has to provide is the ability to represent the three elements of color: hue, value and chroma. In other words, we need to be able to create the full spectrum of the color wheel, a range of lighter and darker values within that spectrum, and grayer versions of those colors. (For more on this, check out my blog posts from August 6, 2007 and August 11, 2008, or the Pastel Pointers column in the February 2009 issue of The Pastel Journal).
 
Many pastel painters amass huge collections of pastels over a lifetime. They attempt to expand their palettes, feeling that there is always something missing—that certain subtle color or value. With the availability of more pastel brands, there are more choices than ever before. Manufacturers have started mixing pigments together, instead of relying on just the addition of black and white to one pigment to create value variations. These mixed pigment sticks have greatly helped in matching the quality of perceived color versus a total reliance on one pigment. This is most evident in the family of green.

As comforting as it might be to have every pastel available on the market, it can also prove to be overwhelming and confusing. This often leads to unharmonious pastel marks and a fragmented painting. As the old saying goes; less is more. To set up a limited palette of pastels, start by selecting a value range of the basic color wheel colors. It can be limited to the three primary and three secondary colors or expanded to take in the tertiary colors. Have at least five values of each color family. This would be approximately 30 to 60 pastel sticks (Maggie Price Basic Values Set, available from Terry Ludwig Pastels is an example of this concept). Next, add grayed versions of the color families in a few values. Good gray sets are available from a variety of manufacturers, including Girault, Unison, Great American and Mount Vision. This limited palette would be somewhere between 48 and 78 sticks. While many successful paintings can be done with far fewer pastels, this palette, with some overlapping and at times a little compromising, will allow you to represent the basic quality of light in all its varied settings.
 
[pictured above] A limited pastel palette of 78 sticks for landscape painting that I put together for Great American pastels.




9/21/2009 9:56:38 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3]
 Monday, September 14, 2009
Digital Thumbnail Sketch
Posted by richard

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Understanding the elements of a scene before attempting to paint is crucial to a successful outcome. The abstract design of shapes, angles, values and colors all play a major part in why one painting works and another fails. Often we're attracted to the story of the scene but don’t put enough effort into understanding its essence. A winding country road with a charming grove of trees in the distance might be appealing in story content but lacking in other key elements that provide balance and harmony. As I mentioned in a blog post about thumbnails from July 20 2009, these underlying visual elements can be the make or break of a painting.
 
As important as thumbnail sketches can be, many painters still choose to ignore them and jump headlong into the painting without an understanding of the underlying strengths and weaknesses of the scene. This is especially true when working en plein air. Because everything is changing, painters become anxious to get started. The excitement and anticipation can be paramount to holding a thoroughbred horse in the starting gate before a race. But there's a solution. When you feel like you don’t have time to physically do thumbnail sketches, there's a modern tool that can quickly provide similar information: the compact digital camera. Take a series of reference exposures of the considered scene and scroll back through them using the LCD screen on the back of the camera. If color is a distraction, you can adjust the camera to take grey scale (black and white) images or convert color images after the fact. Hold the camera at arms length to mineralize the picture size. View the images in a shaded area when working in extreme sunlight. While scrolling, look for visual impact. If you still have a hard time ignoring the story content of the picture, close one eye and squint. Strong patterns of value and shape will be noticeable, making it easier to see which images have the strongest elements to work with. This provides something to hold onto throughout the painting, reminding you of the abstract relationships that hold the painting together. You understand the big picture.

While it's always better to devote preparation time to a series of thumbnail sketches in advance of painting, for those times when you just can’t wait, a quick digital review will expedite the process, providing a quick glimpse a scene's visual elements without the story line interfering.

[pictured above] This shows one of my reference photos, viewed at arms length, while painting on location.

Read Richard's column about an intuitive approach to underpaintings in the October issue of The Pastel Journal available here.


9/14/2009 2:15:50 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5]
 Tuesday, September 08, 2009
Reflecting on Reflections
Posted by richard

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Artists have been attracted to reflections throughout history. We all admire what Monet did with the reflections of the Houses of Parliament as well as the famous water lily series. This attraction to reflections was certainly an impetus for my painting, Winter Canal (left; pastel, 12x12).

Contemporary pastel artist, Fred Somers, from Minnesota, has also done some very interesting and intriguing paintings of reflections on water—such as his painting, Gold Leaf on Crimson Waters (pastel, 18x24) below. (To learn more about Somers, see the feature on the artist in the October issue of The Pastel Journal, and visit his website).

7208_167225l.jpgAs beautiful as reflections are, there are a few observations about them that are often overlooked by the novice painter:

1. Reflections are not a mirror reflection of the scene. You are seeing the reflected images and the scene in front of you from two different viewing angles. The reflection is coming off the surface of the water, but you see the reflection from an angle as far below the water's surface as you are above it. Depending on your visual height compared to the reflective surface, this can vary considerably. If you are six feet tall and standing on the edge of the reflective body, the reflection would be coming from a distance of six feet below the surface of the water. In other words, the reflection is showing you the underside of what you can see and, due to its angle, may cut off things you are capable of seeing in the distance. This is evident when looking at a distant mountain across a lake but only a tip of it reflects below the tree line along the shore. From the water surface, the mountain would not be visible, but to you it is very clear. Think of the reflection as being you, submerged in the water, looking up. The angle of vision is greatly different than what you see eye-level from the shore. This is more pronounced when closer to the reflection and becomes less noticeable at great distances.
 
2. Generally, darks reflect slightly lighter and lights slightly darker. Depending on the clarity of the water, this can be more or less pronounced. Color will be affected by the surface tone and is rarely brighter in chroma than what is being reflected.
 
3. All reflections move towards you. A reflection takes three components: the objects reflecting, the surface they are reflecting on, and you. You are the component most often left out of the recipe. Reflections travel towards your eyes and will appear to follow you when you move. To best see this, go to a boat basin and look at the reflections of tall upright poles in the water. As they reflect, the tops (which are at the bottom of the reflection) appear to come towards your feet. This can be subtle but is a fact of reflections.
 
4. Edges should be softer than the reflecting objects. Due to the refractive nature of even the stillest water, edges should be slightly softened. Sparkles on the surface of the water should also be softened and radiate from near white to a slight orange yellow as the light is being bent. As light hits the surface of the water, it is shattered. Try not to paint those perfect little white dots that photography is capable of capturing. The human eye is not a camera lens and shutter.
 
By looking for these tendencies, you will become more sensitive to the true nature of reflections and your paintings will manifest a more natural appearance.




9/8/2009 2:05:45 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2]
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