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 Monday, July 27, 2009
A French Adventure
Posted by richard
As a landscape painter, I find myself constantly curious to see what lies over every hill. Of course, there's more than enough to keep me painting in my own backyard; Oregon is filled with diversity and wonder, but when opportunity provides the chance to explore, I'm always eager. A few weeks ago I was fortunate to have been teaching and painting in the Lot Valley of France. Having visited the Provence region three years ago, I was anxious to return to France. As Robert Henri noted in his book, The Art Spirit, France is a nation that centuries ago embraced its artistic nature. It's manifest everywhere. The aesthetic of beauty is not just by accident but also by design. They honor and respect painters. Art is thought of as a noble endeavor: What’s not to love about that?! The workshop was hosted at a popular artist's retreat, Domaine du Haut Baran. Hosts William and Rosalie Haas have transformed an 18th century country manor into a painter’s paradise. Nestled in a quiet hillside overlooking the Lot River valley and the village of Puy L’Eveque, it provides ample painting opportunities in its own right. This popular location has hosted many art workshops with some of the most recognizable names in the art community, artists like Elizabeth Mowry, Alan Flattmann and Judith Carducci. With quiet Bastide villages nearby, painters find they can focus on their craft while still enjoying the local culture without compromise. My visit occuring near the end of June and into the first part of July allowed our group to witness firsthand the summer heat and taste a bit of the humidity which keeps the valley so lush. All of this was forgotten with the first glimpse of lavender fields. There's nothing quite as perfect as a decaying ochre-colored 13th century castle perched on a hillside above a field of lavender. It didn’t hurt that it was set near a winery that nursed the mood of a few frustrated painters. Another afternoon we visited some of the first pastel paintings recorded 25,000 years ago in the caves of Pech Merle (early man even formed them into stick form before applying the pigment to the cave walls) making us proud to have carried the torch into the 21st century. Say what they will, pastel was first! The final thrill caught us by surprise as we drove back from an afternoon of painting in the hilltop Bastide of Belaye. A panoramic view into the Lot Valley brought glimpses of the river as it meandered through the fertile valley, and then sunflowers—entire fields of them! William encouraged us to walk into the fields amongst the rows of flowers. It really was a sea of dancing cadmium. As a group, we were so impressed that on the final day we persuaded him to take us back and even more fields were explored. Every culture has its art, but as a landscape artist, it's easy to see why France is so dear. You can visit Haut Baran’s web site at www.hautbaran.com. If you're able to attend one of their fine workshop offerings, I encourage you to do so. I know I’ll be back. The sunflowers must be painted!
7/27/2009 9:32:20 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, July 20, 2009
Thumbnails—Your Ticket to Better Compositions
Posted by richard
 Just like a house needs a solid foundation for support, so too does a successful painting. One of the best ways of insuring this is to focus on composition and design elements prior to applying pastel to the surface. As painters, we are often reminded that the ability to draw is essential to a successful painting. Being able to accurately render the appearance of things is crucial to capturing a likeness. But composition entails more than that ability. It encompasses the arrangement of simplified shapes, angles of visual direction, value masses, and color choices throughout the framework of the painting. Just like an author arranges words and the musician arranges sound, the painter arranges visual elements to communicate intent and reinforce their concept. One of the best means of exploring these possibilities is to do a series of thumbnail sketches prior to painting (see above an assortment of some of my thumbnails). As the name implies, these sketches are meant to be small. Working large encourages detail—the nemesis of composition. Details tell us about things; thumbnail sketches tell us about relationships. If you are accustomed to sketching detailed renderings of scenes, this can be an awkward exercise. Give yourself permission to be messy, even crude, with these sketches. Keep them simple. Break elements of the scene into no more than 4 or 5 major shapes. Analyze the directional thrust of the shapes. Associate reflective light (value) to the shapes. Scrutinize these thumbnail sketches and make adjustments. Leave out, add, move, and alter elements to strengthen your concept—the idea you wish to communicate about the scene. Rely on these sketches to set the foundation of the painting. Many hours of frustration may be avoided by orchestrating these compositional elements before committing time and energy to the process of painting. As the painting progresses and details are added, they provide a reminder of what was really important and help to keep you on track as you become enamored with incidentals. They become the blueprints of the structure. Remember, all the pretty pastel in the world will not support a weak design. For a broad selection of opinions on design and composition, investigate Margot Schulzke’s book, A Painters Guide to Design and Composition, published by North Light Books.
7/20/2009 2:31:48 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, July 13, 2009
Trimming a Finished Pastel Painting
Posted by richard
 Pastel surfaces often need to be trimmed to fit framing requirements or to improve the overall composition of the painting. Once pastel has been applied, this becomes a more delicate matter and requires added precautions so as not to alter the appearance of the painting. Useful items to have on hand are: glassine protective paper, X-Acto utility knife with fresh blades, heavy-duty utility box cutter with fresh blades (for extremely rigid surfaces), metal straight edge (a metal carpenters square works well), cutting surface, drafting tape, and an emery file board. In place of a metal straight edge, a mat cutter can be used. Start by placing a sheet of protective glassine paper over the painting, taping it to the backside or extra boarder of the surface. The glassine protects the surface of the painting, allowing the straightedge or mat cutter to be placed on the painting for the cut. By tacking it in place, you can avoid slippage and potential smudging. Make sure the surface on which you're cutting is skid proof and won't be damaged by the penetration of the blade. Cutting surfaces are available at most art supply, quilting or craft stores. Keep the height of the table low enough that you can apply a moderate amount of pressure when leaning over the piece, helping to keep the painting and straightedge in place. Mark the placement of the cut lightly with a pencil, then gently place the straightedge over the painting at the desired marks and score the painting with the utility knife. It's best to start with a weak incision, creating a track for subsequent cuts. If a mat cutter is being used, follow the same procedure, placing glassine over the painting and then carefully placing the painting under the cutter edge at the desired point. In my experience, it's been easier to use a utility knife with a mat cutter than the mat-cutting attachment, which often cuts a distance from the metal edge, requiring compensation. Many pastel papers are abrasive and, after a few passes, the utility knife blade will be dulled and need replacement. Different surfaces need different care. Thin papers are the easiest, often requiring a single pass of the blade. Mounted papers may require multiple cuts to penetrate the mounting board. Rigid wood composite panels, like Ampersand Pastelbord, or homemade grit surfaces are the most difficult. It's easier to cut them on a table saw in advance of painting. Once pastel has been applied, these surfaces require a good strong hand, a heavy-duty utility knife and patience. Score the board with a few passes of the knife, then place the board over a straight table edge at the scored point and snap it down. If everything goes well, the board will snap along the scored cut and only minor sanding with an emery board will be required to clean the edge. Practice on a few failed paintings before trimming your masterpieces. With preparation and calm resolve, everything will come out fine, and your paintings will have the outer dimensions you require. Pictured here: A pastel painting in need of trimming, surrounded by a cutting surface, glassine, X-Acto knife, utility knife, drafting tape nd metal carpenters square.
7/13/2009 9:43:35 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, July 06, 2009
Traveling Even Lighter
Posted by richard
 I am often asked what supplies I take with me when I travel and how do I get them to my destination intact. I've addressed these questions in previous posts (in December 2007 and March 2009), but—as useful as these methods have been—I continue to look for ways to make the process easier. Air travel is the biggest issue. When I drive, the car can be filled with extras of everything, providing a sense of security. I know I will have what I want when I want it. Air travel is another matter. Baggage is often brutally handled. Pastels when scanned look suspicious. Easels often prove to be fragile. To avoid these concerns, supplies can be shipped in advance of travel. Since an extra charge has been added by most airlines for baggage, however, it has proved to be as cost effective and considerably less stressful to ship in advance. Many hotels will accept shipments before you arrive and will be helpful in arranging for pickup at the end of your stay. While this may be the best solution for domestic travel—especially when you have a lot of supplies—it is impractical when it comes to traveling abroad. Most airlines allow for extra checked luggage without an additional charge when traveling overseas, but you still have the concerns of lost or damaged content. There is nothing more frustrating than waiting for lost luggage to arrive, only to find your supplies damaged and unusable. As Americans, we are pretty spoiled by the art supplies available to us. Many of the papers and brands of pastels we are accustomed to using are not available in other countries. To better enjoy your time painting and to avoid the hassle of tracking down usable supplies, it is advisable to take with you as much as possible. This is where the issues of “how much” and “how to transport” really come in to play. For my upcoming workshop in France, I decided to forgo my usual system and work to fit everything required for 10 days of painting into a backpack. After considerable anxiety it has been organized and consists of: - The backpack, strong enough to hold the contents, which weighs close to 15 pounds. It will fit in the overhead bin of the airplane. If you are unable to carry this much weight on your back, try using a sturdy rolling computer bag.
- A backpack size Heilman box containing the pastel palette.
- A small watercolor palette for underpainting procedures, a couple of brushes, and a small plastic cup.
- Twelve pieces of mounted pastel paper (9x12 to 11x14), covered with glassine tissue, and sandwiched between two pieces of rigid Gatorboard® for protection.
- A SunEden Artist Self-400 that attaches to a tripod, for holding the pastel palette.
- A lightweight sturdy tripod (Bogen Digi model 725B).
- Sketchbook, pencils, value markers, viewfinder, apron, hat, Viva brand paper towels (can’t pastel without them), and compact camera.
Note: Instead of using the SunEden or Heilman easel attachment, I mounted the tripod camera quick release plate to a 12x16 board, making an attachable drawing board to hold the pastel paper while painting. I’ll let you know how the downsized system works in a few weeks when I return from l'aventure en France. 
7/6/2009 4:50:47 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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