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 Friday, May 22, 2009
A New "Old" Fixative
Posted by richard

94-SpectraFix-fixative.jpg
Whether or not to use a fixative is one of the most discussed issues in the pastel community. It ranks right up there with rubbing pastel. As I discussed in the 9/16/08 blog post, this is a very personal issue that can affect technique, appearance and conservation.

Historically, fixatives were made of natural resins suspended in alcohol and blown onto the surface. Currently, most fixatives utilize an aerosol propellant and are frequently acrylic-based. Depending on the resin and the means of application, a variety of appearance changes can occur. Individual pastel brands and surface choices also play a role in how the fixative reacts. The most common effect is a general darkening of the overall appearance and a dulling of bright colors. Many painters have simply opted to avoid the use of fixative altogether unless their technique relies on it to facilitate multiple layers of pastel.
 
Recently, I've learned about a new product on the market called Spectrafix. Based on research into the working methods of Edgar Degas, Della Heywood discovered that the most likely fixative he used was casein-based. Casein is milk protein, non-toxic, and considered extremely archival. By suspending it in pure grain alcohol and utilizing a pump mist sprayer, Heywood managed to avoid the environmentally unfriendly aerosol can for this product. The product is available in a 12-ounce pump bottle or in a 2-ounce concentrate that accommodates air travel. The concentrate can then be mixed in a small pump mist bottle with a variety of alcohol-based products. This is a great way for the fixative-utilizing pastelist to travel to those exotic locations without having to compromise their technique.
 
Over the last several weeks, I've put both the premixed and concentrate version of SpectraFix through a series of tests with very satisfying results. First, I wanted to see if it created any major color shifts and darkening effects. After testing the premixed version on a variety of surfaces using various pastel brands, I found little to no change in the appearance of the pastel once it dried. Even when the mist pump bottle created the appearance of larger wet blotches, they disappeared after drying.

Then I experimented with the concentrate, diluted in pure grain alcohol, available from most liquor stores. The information provided with the product as well as on their website list appropriate solutions that can be readily found when traveling. Stronger or weaker dilutions can easily be made with the concentrate, providing a variety of technique possibilities. This will become part of my travel kit in the future, providing flexibility when working away from the studio.
 
After years of avoiding fixative, I can say with confidence that I have found a new tool for pastel painting.




5/22/2009 10:09:43 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6]
 Monday, May 18, 2009
Planting Your Feet in the Same Place
Posted by richard

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With the arrival of spring, many landscape painters’ fancy returns to working en plein air. After spending the bulk of the winter hunkered down in the studio, we find ourselves eager to get back outside to become immersed in the natural light that fills the landscape.

While oil has long been considered the king of plein air painting, and watercolor the perfect travel-sketching medium, many of us consider pastel to be the best choice. It doesn’t require solvents or fluids; finished paintings are not messy to transport; and as quickly as we can open our field palettes, we are painting. The biggest issue is the number of pastels to carry and how to set them up for accessibility and stability—subjects I have addressed in my Pastel Pointers print columns in the June, August and October 2008 issues of The Pastel Journal.
 
There are two motivations when working on location—besides the obvious benefit of working directly from the source—and they are: first, to find inspiration by seeking the new, and second, to return to a familiar location to reinterpret. When heading out to work on location, it's easy to believe that we should always be looking for the new, to be wondering what lies just over the hill. This is the hunting aspect of working on location. It provides the exciting subject matter that motivates and inspires us. Always seeking the new, though, can become a hindrance, diverting us from what can be accomplished by returning to familiar locations.

Last week, after a four-year hiatus, I was able to return to an area with Albert Handell that we have both previously enjoyed (See the photo of Albert Handell, at work in the Redmond, Ore., location we visited four years ago). There was no need to explore. We knew where we wanted to be. We have grown artistically in the interim and the scene had subtly changed, but within a matter of minutes, we had picked up where we left off, as if it were just yesterday that we had painted there. Having this familiarity allowed us to paint with heightened clarity, ultimately leading to multiple paintings.

When we return to familiar territory, we are able to bring our prior experiences into play, leading to more sensitive painting experiences. It becomes an old friend and, even though we might not have interacted with it for a while, we pick up where we left off. This comfort allows us to go deeper.
 




5/18/2009 10:36:03 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]
 Monday, May 11, 2009
A Painter's Guide to Pricing
Posted by richard

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Pricing our paintings can be a confusing issue. These are our creations and, unlike a basic manufactured widget, we have an emotional attachment. Analyzing a few marketing factors and sticking to a pricing system can help.
 
Cost of manufacture: The expenses involved in the production of a painting are many. There is the cost of materials, framing, continuing education, and marketing. All of these have to be factored in at some point. In the beginning, monies will be all going out as you invest in your painting education. As the paintings improve and sales occur, you will start recouping these expenses.
 
Know yourself: Every one of us has a different sense of self worth. Some artists think so little of their efforts that they under-price, while others have an inflated sense of worth, asking grossly inflated prices. If you fall into either of these categories, seeking the advice of gallery owners and other artists you respect can be invaluable.
 
Know your market: Just because your painting is good doesn’t mean it will sell for what it is worth. Markets vary from region to region just like home prices. Understanding your market will place you in a better position to sell, providing money that can be reinvested in materials and continued education. As your ability grows, so will your market. With time, you will be displaying in higher-priced venues and receiving the true value of your labors.
 
Equal pricing across markets: Some venues require no sales commission; others ask for a moderate percentage; and prominent galleries often require as much as half of the selling price in commission. As hard as this can be to accept, it is the reality of higher end representation. They have their overhead and it is wise to remember they are a business, not a museum. Over the long term, they can do a lot to bolster your reputation, leading to higher prices and a greater profit margin. Keeping an even price across multiple sales venues can be an issue. It is advisable to have a standard price no matter what the commission discrepancies may be. If you vary your pricing based on the commission percentage, a patron that paid a higher price at one venue will be understandably upset when they see a comparable painting for sale at a reduced price in another.
 
Size pricing: Most artists’ price by size using a cost by united inch or square inch. For united inch, it is length plus width then multiplied by a value. Square inch is length multiplied by width then multiplied by a value. Here's an example of square-inch pricing: A 16x20 painting (320 square inches) at $5 per square inch equals $1,600. The cost per inch goes down as the size increases. This is due to the fact that a smaller painting can take as much, if not more, effort than a large painting. Since I work in a series of sizes, I have created commensurate pricing which I apply to all markets. If a frame costs a little more, a slight adjustment can be made without creating a huge discrepancy.

Emotional pricing: We all have our “special” paintings. This often leads us to place a higher value than on a comparably sized painting. When a prospective client sees this discrepancy, they sometimes question the quality of the lower-priced paintings. So, when that “special” painting comes along, it is better to hold it back. Keep it for your enjoyment or enter it in competitions instead of inflating its price. When you produce your next best, favorite, “special” painting, place your old favorite back into circulation.
 
My best advice to any artist when asked, “What should I ask for my work?” is to reply: “For what would you be willing to part with the painting?” When it is all said and done, it is between you and the purchaser. If you are happy and they are pleased, it is a successful “win-win” transaction.




5/11/2009 9:52:26 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]
 Monday, May 04, 2009
The Marks We Make
Posted by richard

91-the-marks-we-make.jpg
Pastel is tactile by its very nature. It's the closest thing to dipping our fingers in paint and directly applying marks to a surface. When we hold the pastel stick in our hands we make direct contact with our chosen surface, bypassing the brush. This action creates heightened sensitivity. The texture of the surface and the smoothness or firmness of the pastel stick is felt. Pressure is then adjusted to deposit more or less of the pigment, creating a variety of affects. These gestures and pressures are as individual as the artists making them.
 
When first approaching the medium of pastel and the variety of ways of applying it to a surface, it's often best to copy the techniques of a successful pastel painter you admire. By emulating his or her technique, you learn the artist's methods and, with practice, become comfortable with the medium. After conquering one style, try another. Just as you try out a variety of surfaces and brands of pastels to find what fits your painting personality best, so to should you explore the various ways of applying pastel.

Analyze the strokes of the pastel artists you admire and you will see the individuality each has. There isn’t one “right” way but many: some hatch; others dab; many swipe; and some drift. When hatching, crosshatching, and dabbing, hold the pastel stick like a crayon and make marks with the tip. Make all the marks one direction, varying the colors and values as needed. This creates a hatched appearance and imparts a sense of fragmented broken color and value as well as rhythm and texture.

When adding or altering a color, change the direction of the stroke, creating a crosshatched broken application. This is a good method for blending two colors together without smearing and losing the freshness of the application.

Next try dabbing the pastel stick to create a variety of sizes of marks from small to large. For a painterly appearance, break your pastel sticks into smaller pieces and utilize the side of the sticks to simulate the action of a paintbrush.

Experiment with a variety of pressures, sometimes making definite marks by lifting and setting the stick back down in a various directions and then allow the stick to stay in contact with the surface while dragging.

Play and have fun. Don’t make the experiment about a finished painting. Instead, focus on gaining tactile experience. Just as no two person’s signatures are the same, so too are the ways in which we apply pastel to surface. With time, your personal calligraphy will become evident, making your work uniquely your own.
 
The image above shows an example of hatching, dabbing, crosshatching, and swiping strokes.




5/4/2009 10:23:45 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]
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