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 Monday, November 24, 2008
Framing Without a Mat
Posted by richard
 Many pastel artists are abandoning traditional mat and frame presentations and replacing them instead with wide wood frames. This allows the pastel to look less like a print or poster, which commonly have a wide surrounding border. These works are attracting the attention of the canvas-buying public. Commonly, oil and acrylic paintings are displayed with a wider wood frame that may or may not have a small liner. A pastel presented in a similar fashion demands the same respect often afforded these canvas media. This is especially true when anti- or low-reflection glazing is utilized, like Tru Vue brand AR and Museum Glass. Many prominent galleries are encouraging this presentation and most national pastel exhibitions are seeing entries framed in this manner. The traditional mat serves as more than a decorative border; it acts as a spacer, holding the delicate pastel surface away from the glass. When matting is eliminated, the framing options are to either sandwich the painting against the glass (an old French method) or to utilize a spacer. Most framing experts agree that it is best to keep the pastel surface away from the glass. For this reason, I use a spacer when framing mat-less. I have found an excellent assortment of spacers to be available from Art Spacers. They come in an array of sizes, have adhesive on one side, and are easy to cut to size. These manufactured spacers make it a breeze to have a pastel ready to hang in a matter of minutes. Cut the spacer to fit the sides of the glass, peal the tape back to expose the adhesive, and stick it to the outside of the glass. Once attached to the glass, simply place it on top of the painting with a non-acidic, PH-balanced backing behind the painting. For added stability, seal the glass to the backing. Use PH-neutral tape available from a framing supply. Attach the tape to the front edge of the glass and wrap it around the sides to adhere it to the backing. This seals the painting between the glass, spacer and backing, allowing for easy placement into a frame and easy removal if needed. With today’s readily available selection of plein air (or impressionist) frames, selecting a style that compliments your painting has never been easier. Whether to use a mat or go mat-less is up to you, but it is nice to have the option. The photo (above) shows the spacer attached to museum glass, an X-acto knife for cutting the spacer material, a backing board, and framer's tape for sealing edges.
11/24/2008 9:44:49 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Monday, November 17, 2008
Fall Inspirations
Posted by richard
 Every season has its charm: winter is introspection; spring is promise of renewal; summer is energy; and fall is last hurrah. Finding inspiration in these seasons is part of what makes landscape painting so enjoyable. We know that change is inevitable. Our subject matter is never still. As the earth wobbles on its axis, the seasons come and go. We might have our favorite, even one that finds us producing the most work, but fall seems to be the one most often mentioned for its visual stimulation. The transition from greens to warm yellows, oranges, and reds never seems to disappoint. Every region has its personality on display; see what southern Oregon has to offer in the photo at left. Areas with an abundance of hardwoods will put on the most spectacular of shows: Maple, birch, aspen, alder, elm, cottonwood, and even oak have their special palettes. Bu even the brushes of the desert add their notes of color to make fall one of the most inspiring, if fleeting, times of year. Due to the juxtaposition of cool and warm, these autumn scenes are often difficult to portray without looking artificial. The unsuspecting landscape painter, whose paintings of winter, spring, and summer work well, often winds up struggling to make a vibrant fall scene look respectable. A suggestion that might make this stimulating time of year a little easier to handle: Choose a dominant color temperature for the painting. Imbue all the color choices with that temperature as a means of unifying what could otherwise be a painting made up of opposing color families. An example would be choosing a warm color temperature and then toning the intense blue sky and green grasses down a bit in chroma (intensity) to better unify it with the bright intense warm tones that dominate the painting. By graying the cooler tones, they will become naturally warmer and better allow the warms to dominate the painting. A cooler temperature would affect the chroma (intensity) of the fall foliage, making it slightly grayed and better unifying it with the intense cool sky and grasses. By choosing one color temperature to be of the highest chromatic intensity, a painting that represents even the most exciting of color variations (like yellow, red, and orange adjacent to blue and green) will harmonize. Enjoy what fall has to offer; soon winter will be upon you and another inspiration will be taking your hand.
11/17/2008 2:40:03 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Dealing with Dust
Posted by richard
 By its very nature pastel is a dusty medium. Depending on the brand of pastel you work with and the surface you choose to apply it to, dust can be minor or heavy. Harder, less toothy surfaces tend to produce more dust, while sanded surfaces tend to hold more of the pastel particles. These minute pastel fragments are often toxic and can be hazardous to your health. Use caution to avoid inhaling the pigment particles. - Work with your paintings in an upright position, allowing the dust to settle gently to the bottom of the painting.
- Work in a well-ventilated studio workspace; cross ventilation is very helpful if a mechanical means of pulling air away from the easel is not utilized.
- Use a damp towel to clean up around the painting area. A damp towel will hold the dust instead of stirring it up. This is also useful for wiping your hands frequently while painting.
- Avoid the bad habit of blowing on the pastel to dislodge the dust. This removes the pastel that has not been well adhered to the surface but also makes it airborne. If you must blow, take it outside and immediately stand back.
- To better collect the dust below your painting, create a trough, something to hold the dust until it can be dealt with. Otherwise dust will fall down onto your workspace, creating a considerable mess.
- If you plan on disposing of the dust at the end of the painting, wide strips of tape with the sticky side facing up can catch the dust, making cleanup very convenient. If you want to collect the dust, a hard trough is better suited (see the 11/26/07 blog about what to do with leftover pastel).
In my studio, I use a formed metal trough that runs across the bottom lip of the easel tray (see photo above). This collects the dust that I carefully scrap into a container. When traveling or working on location, aluminum foil is a good choice. It is easily folded and stored in a plastic zip-lock sandwich bag, taking up no room in your travel case. To attach the aluminum, or reverse tape, trough to your painting surface, adhere it to the back and fold it to the front. If tape is used for the trough make sure the sticky side faces up. Often a folded strip of mat-board is useful, making the trough more rigid. Experiment to find what works best for your needs, and then get into the habit of using good dust hygiene.
11/11/2008 9:47:56 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Monday, November 03, 2008
Edges: A Magical Tool
Posted by richard
 Painting is but an illusion. How we handle the elements within the framework of the painting relate visually to the viewer and communicate our intentions. Learning the strength of these elements is our ongoing job. How edges are manipulated can be one of the strongest tools we have in conveying focus and form. The sculptor creates within the realm of mass, producing bulk and relating form. The painter, on the other hand, works on a flat surface and produces the appearance of form with the visual elements of shape, value, color, and edge. Our pastel surface is flat. We have to produce the magic of making it appear dimensional. Hard, sharper edges produce stronger focus and flatness. Soft, blurred edges produce less attention and more depth of form. Finessing hard and soft edges throughout our paintings can lead to more attention and depth. The relativity of edges throughout a painting is determined by the artist’s choices. Something may appear very soft in one painting and yet appear hard in another, depending on how the edges are handled comparatively. If an artist chooses to work very sharp edged, then anything slightly blurred will appear very soft. If everything is blurred, anything slightly hard will appear sharp. Generally speaking, creating harder edges near the area of interest, or major focal points, leads the viewer to a specific area and holds their attention, just like focusing our vision on a given area makes it appear sharper. Conversely, softer, fuzzy edges diminish and become less important, which leads to a feeling of bulk due to the offset placement of our eyes. Softer edged objects within our paintings feel as if they could be hugged. Orchestrating between hard and soft edges becomes a personal style choice. Understanding their visual power provides us the power of the illusion: producing both focus and bulk. Another magician’s trick exposed! Painting detail: illustrating hard and soft edges within a pastel painting.
11/3/2008 2:26:13 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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