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 Monday, September 29, 2008
Photography That Works
Posted by richard
As enjoyable and addictive as working on location ( en plein air) can be, there are times when we don’t have the luxury of setting up our gear and devoting the needed time to a field painting. In these instances, photography can be a useful tool, providing a reference image that sparks our memory, transporting us back to the scene and our initial motivation.  Photography is often given too much importance and blindly copied. We forget that it's an art form in it’s own right and easily manipulated. Lenses create distortion of depth and focus. Value ranges are condensed leading to overly dark shadows and blown out lights. Color is all over the place. With so many things against it, you might wonder why use it at all. The one thing the camera does very effectively is record detail. Focused properly, it's capable of razor-sharp definition. Since it is so capable of recording the most incidental of information within a scene, our attention should be on what it doesn’t handle well. This being: value relationships and color tendencies. To overcome this challenge, make notes or sketches of these relationships and snap that quick photo to provide detail information that might be needed during the painting process back in the studio. I use a simple formula to photographically record the scenes I don’t have time to paint. I begin by setting the zoom lenses on the camera to as close to human depth perception as possible. For standard digital cameras, this is close to 30mm. On a 35mm film camera, it is 50mm. If your simple pocket camera doesn’t indicate these settings, just bump it up one telephoto notch when the camera is turned on. Most point-and-shoot cameras start at a mild wide-angle setting when initially powered up. Telephoto settings might be useful for pulling things closer, making them appear bigger, but they greatly distort the depth by closing space. Wide-angle settings provide the ability to accommodate more of a scene, producing a panoramic view, creating more distance between objects, and opening up space. As useful as these lenses settings might be, it's imperative that we remember the distorted appearance they produce. After framing the scene and taking this first photo, you can zoom to telephoto or back up to wide angle as desired, recording any pertinent information you wish. Relying on the first photo to relate the human perspective as perceived when standing there allows you to place your feet back on the ground, no matter what was done with subsequent photos. It’s the most important reference photograph—helping to transport us mentally back to the location. The important thing with photography is to remain aware of its limitations. We need to become sensitive to human perception by spending time observing nature. Not a quick glance, but studied quiet time just observing. Through this study, a better relationship can be formed with the photograph as reference material and not the all-powerful god it can become. It's our job to use it, instead of being used by it.
9/29/2008 11:48:44 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, September 22, 2008
Open a New Door
Posted by richard
 Even with the best-laid plans, a painting can sometimes just not work. No matter how hard we try, nothing seems to help. This happens to the best of us and I would like to share some advice that might prove helpful when you confront your own painting stalemate. First, don’t force it. Give yourself time to just observe the painting. Set it aside and periodically glance its way. You'll be amazed how all of the sudden you just “know” what it needs. Breaking away from the intensity of the process often leads to a clearer perspective and an easier resolve. Remind yourself of why you were doing the painting in the first place. It's easy to get distracted from our initial objective and aimlessly throw “things” at the painting in hope of resolve. Look at work by artists you admire. By finding a similar situation in someone else’s painting, you'll often find a solution for your own. When all else fails, go a new direction: open a new door. If the old path wasn’t getting you to your desired destination, allow for flexibility by closing that door and opening another. One of the ways in which I do this is to wash a section of the pastel painting off (typically, the one in conflict) and open myself up to the possibilities as the pastel runs and blends together. Repeatedly brushing solvent (usually mineral spirits), allows for those “happy accidents” which can spark a creative response. All of a sudden a heavy rock and brush filled foreground becomes a distant field, or a rushing waterway filled with large boulders becomes a quiet still pool of reflective water. This is what lead to the resolve of my painting Creek-side Interplay (above). Started on location in a heavily wooded creek-side interior, the lower right side was dominated by a large rock and turbulent cascading water. Nothing I tried seemed to resolve the painting. I darkened areas, lightened areas, altered color relationships, adjusted edges—you get the idea; and nothing was making it work. After considerable time and patient study, I closed that door and decided to open another. Out came the brush and mineral spirits. After repeatedly brushing the foreground, the pastel began to run down the front of the painting and the appearance of a reflective pool emerged. With this new-found enthusiasm, I quickly let the painting lead me and added a few fallen logs and water surface indications. Once the imagination explores the possibilities by opening a new door, excitement and enthusiasm is sparked, and a painting often seems to paint itself. If a painting isn’t working to begin with, you have nothing to lose and everything to gain by taking a chance. Pastel is a forgiving medium. Worse case scenario: you have an exciting underpainting for your next masterpiece.
9/22/2008 4:47:59 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Fix It or Forget It?
Posted by richard
 Q: I've studied with a couple of different pastel artists and one of them sprays throughout the building up of the painting, and blends until no dust comes loose, then ends with a final spray. The other one blends with the pastel stick and never sprays the painting. What is the most common and preferred method? A: To fix or not is one of those ongoing pastel dilemmas: color shift, a slight darkening and dulling, will occur to some degree when fixative is applied to a pastel painting; however, a thin layer of fixative makes for a more stable pastel surface. Weighing the pros and cons becomes, int he end, a personal choice. Fixatives have come a long way from the early heavy resin varieties that created considerable color shift. Many modern brands like Lascaux, Sennelier Latour and Daler-Rowney Prefix (see photo) create a minimum of color shift and are favored by many professional artists. These fixatives are of the highest quality, utilizing acrylic resins and are non-yellowing. This makes them very suitable as a final protective application. Brands like Blair No-odor and Krylon Workable Fixatif produce more noticeable color shifting and are better suited for isolating layers of pastel. This replicates the technique of an oil painter that allows individual layers of paint to dry before adding another. Fixative can also be used to settle a heavy pastel buildup. This provides additional tooth, allowing more pastel to be easily applied. Historically, fixatives were supplied in a liquid form and applied with a breath-propelled atomizer. With the advent of the aerosol canister, application become more convenient. Some artists may still prefer to apply fixative in the old-fashioned manner for technique or for environmental reasons. Practice and good lung power will be needed to effectively work in this manner. Hair spray is often mentioned as an inexpensive alternative to artist grade fixative, but most hairsprays contain oils, perfumes and other conditioners that make them better suited for your head than your artwork. When applying fixative, multiple light applications are highly recommended. Heavy over-saturated applications often lead to increased color shifting, shiny areas, and the tooth of the surface becoming filled. Every artist becomes comfortable with his or her individual technique. While many artists that work in multiple layers utilize fixative, the majority shun it because of its ability to alter the appearance. Personally, I use very little fixative in my work. Sometimes, however, I might use a light spray to stabilize a drawing before applying an underpainting, or I might use an isolated spray to settle a heavy pastel passage for additional work. Recently however, I have begun applying a thin final fix, using one of the above mentioned quality fixatives, to add more stability to the finished painting. By practicing proper application and utilizing the availability of high quality fixatives, the benefits of a more stable final surface might be worth the “fix.”
9/16/2008 10:53:57 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, September 08, 2008
Do You Work With Hard Pastels First?
Posted by richard
 Since artists first applied sticks of pigment to surface, they've experimented with a variety of techniques. Many of these adventurous artists were first trained in what was considered a more traditional medium—oil. With alla prima oil painting, meaning "all at once," it's imperative to work thinly in the initial application, working up to heavier layers as the painting progresses. Otherwise everything becomes mud. With each layer of application, the volume of paint becomes heavier and thicker, gently interacting with the one below. This process can easily be mimicked in pastel—which shares so many similarities with oil—by beginning with harder pastel sticks in the initial block-in stage and progressively working towards the softer brands for the final layers. The other means of retaining control in oil paint is to allow each layer to dry before applying additional layers. Pastel artists may employ a similar method by applying layers of fixative to settle and solidify the pastel before applying additional pigment. If you prefer softer pastels and wish to work in layers, the initial pastel application can be rubbed or scraped down—another technique employed by our oil painter friends—to allow for subsequent layering. Depending on the support, this can be an effective means of producing bold painterly pastel paintings that have as much substance and visual weight as an oil painting. To make things easier when selecting pastel sticks for those beginning strokes, many artists segregate their harder pastel brands from the softer pastel brands. This works well in the studio where multiple palettes of pastels can be arranged, but when working en plein air, it can become cumbersome to carry two palettes. If you wish to work hard-to-soft with your travel palette, I have two tips that might prove helpful. First, select harder sticks for the darker regions of the palette, as discussed in an earlier August blog post called “Downsizing a Palette for Travel." Typically our first strokes are in the darker, dull shadow areas of the painting. Having more of these darker, harder sticks in our palette makes it easier to utilize the softer, brighter, lighter sticks as the painting progresses. The second tip is to take one section of your palette box and segregate a selection of harder pastels, in a variety of hues, values, and intensities. If you have a heavy hand when applying pastel, working hard to soft might be the solution for you. It has definitely been part of my painting arsenal, helping me navigate through many a painting battlefield. The photo above shows a variety of harder pastels on the left, including Girault, Nupastel and Rembrandt, and softer pastels—Schmincke and Great American—on the right.
9/8/2008 1:37:54 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, September 02, 2008
Quotes That Guide and Inspire
Posted by richard
“You have but one master and that is nature.”Quotes from admired artists are a great way to remind ourselves of important but often overlooked artistic perspectives. We often become so involved in intense technical study that we lose sight of the big painting journey. Having a collection of these gems, often humorous—sometimes deep—but always insightful, are a wonderful way of having quick reality checks that can get us out of a slump, or propel us farther down the road to our goals. These quotes are culled from the writings of, or about, the artists. Historically we had to research these obscure books, many long out of print, or rely on a published collective. In this modern technological age we have access to a labyrinth of famous quotes online. Sites like BrainyQuote.com and ArtQuotes.net and ThinkExist.com allow easy access to short quotes that are free. It's wise to check the resource of these quotes before relying on them. History has a way of propelling mistakes, as I recently learned. One of my favorite quotes is: “You have but one master and that is nature.” I had run across this in a book from the 1980s about Leonardo da Vinci and used it for years, always attributing it to Leonardo. I was stunned one day when Anne Hevener, the editor of The Pastel Journal, pointed out that it really belonged to Rembrandt (thanks Anne). Fortunately, I admire Rembrandt as much as Leonardo so it wasn’t an issue to continue throwing the quote around! Over the years I've collected many inspiring and insightful quotes. One artist I especially enjoy is Sir Alfred East, 1849-1913. This popular British artist penned a book on landscape painting that has influenced generations of representational painters: The Art of Landscape Painting in Oil Colour by Sir Alfred East (U.S. publication 1907 by J. B. Lippincott Company, Philadelphia). In fact, the first copy of this book I ever saw had the bookplate for the library of John Gamble, the famous California impressionist. Here are a few of his words that I return to often: - There's no royal road in art. In this department of life, as in every other, the students must serve before he can govern. He must learn to construct, to draw, to paint, to observe, and select.
- Build up your picture from the broad masses; don't finish your trees, or your sky, or your distance first. Work on them all at the same time, keeping them in tone like an orchestra. Keep them all in hand like a musical conductor. Have no false notes, no discordant line or colour.
- A boy learns at school the conventional rules of arithmetic, and in after life he probably discovers for himself a system of reckoning which is better suited to his purpose; but had he not first learned the fundamental rules, his own system could not have been so easily evolved. So it is with painting. Technique is of the highest importance. The artist should be able to draw with his brush as easily as a writer uses his pen.
- Go forward in the world with a purpose, a great purpose. You are responsible for the work you do, and you only. The material is right; Nature is as kind to you as she was to Shakespeare. If there is a fault or failure, do not be so mean as to suggest that it was due to Nature. Shakespeare does not tell you what buttons were on the coat of Hamlet, but he does reveal to you the secret of his character.
- Nature has so much to offer that her very generosity may prove a snare, since there is a danger of wasting time and labour in the selection of non-essentials; for that which does not help is a positive hindrance. But of this I am certain, that to those who with patience, with minds free from bias and prejudice, determine to become masters, to them will come the pleasure and the ability of expressing their love of Nature in a language that is perhaps the most beautiful mode of human expression-that of landscape painting.
These are but a few of Sir East’s gems. If you have a favorite artist quote that you would like to share, please post it to the comments section of the blog.
9/2/2008 4:00:06 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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