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 Monday, July 28, 2008
Creating More Luminosity
Posted by richard

52-luminosity.jpgCreating a luminous effect with pastels can be achieved through the fracturing of local color while retaining value consistency. Pastel, being a dry medium, allows us to utilize clean bold pigment applications with less of a concern for the fussing that often leads to a muddied effect in wet mediums.

When light is strong or highly reflected off a variety of surfaces, it can appear to glow. The easiest way to duplicate this in a pastel painting is to use a variety of colors in any given area without changing the value. Value represents the weight or form of the object. Tampering with it will make the structure fall apart, producing an amateurish look. Sir Isaac Newton proved that white light is made up of all color. When he bent the light, it separated into individual colors, producing a rainbow effect. Light is also energy. It's a pulsation—striking and reflecting off surfaces throughout our field of vision.

Being unable to physically capture this energy force and apply it our pastel surfaces, we rely on a few techniques that help in creating a luminous appearance. Fragmenting, or pulling colors apart, within an area, especially one that is made up of considerable illumination, will help to represent the energy and substance of real light creating more luminosity. This works very well in areas like the sky or highly reflective surfaces like water. If the sky is blue, fracture the color into its analogous or neighbor hues: blue, blue-violet, and blue-green, but retain its value. If the value is correct, the area will 
have the right weight and the fractured color will pulsate, visually blending together creating a more luminous appearance. This can be done with any area within a painting but works exceptionally well when it is filled with light. Be aware of the chroma (brightness) of the color choices. Try to stay close in saturation, so that the fractured 
colors relate and easily blend together visually.

Another means of heightening the appearance of a glow or luminosity is to create a halcyon effect. Instead of creating a hard edge all around an object, soften or blur the edge near a highlight, as the light would reflect off the surface. This blur will give the appearance of light bouncing off the object, creating a strong glowing effect. This 
works very well on objects or surfaces that have a strong curve and the light is striking them from an angle. I like to thing of the light as a forcefully thrown ball. When it hits the surface, where would it bounce? Place a little smudge there.

The image (top) is an example of a fractured color application.




7/28/2008 3:30:10 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5]
 Monday, July 21, 2008
More Umbrella Advice
Posted by richard

51-umbrellas.jpgIn the last blog post, I discussed the issues faced by ever-changing lighting conditions when painting on location. Having an umbrella setup that helps to provide consistent shade while working for a few hours can make the situation less stressful.

A few years ago, when there were fewer of us dragging our pastels out on location, we had to improvise to make everyday umbrellas work. Clever devices evolved and we were always looking over the shoulder of each other to see what the other had done. Since the popularity of working en plein air has risen, manufacturers have marketed an array of new setups. Having built a few of my own and field-tested a variety of the commercially available models, I thought I'd share a few observations.

First, determine what size will work best for your individual needs. If you travel a lot, especially by air, a small, compact collapsible model will be best. These attach to the easel with a clamp and usually have a degree of extension and flexibility built in. On the other hand, if you commonly drive to your painting locations, a larger, sturdy model that provides a wider area of shade would be more practical. In windy conditions, vented umbrellas are best. They allow for a degree of airflow before picking up and tipping over whatever they happen to be attached to.

Wind is the major culprit behind the most disruptive scenarios, causing the dreaded tumbled easel and pastel palette. For this reason, carefully consider your umbrella choices when working in blustery conditions. Weighting down an easel with a bag of found rocks or securing an easel to the ground with tent stakes are both good options, as is attaching the umbrella to a freestanding structure, rather than the easel. I've utilized a spare camera tripod at times, attaching a large clamp plein air umbrella or fashioning a golf umbrella with a clamp that attaches to the tripod. This allows me to easily move the setup as the light changes; plus, it is independent of my setup if it should blow over when a wind gusts.

The “Shadebuddy” is available from Dakota Art Pastels or Judsons Art Outfitters. It provides a metal stake that can easily be placed in the bare ground, and it holds a large golf umbrella in its swiveling head, providing similar options. For a good wind-hardy clamp-on umbrella, Artwork Essentials is marketing a telescoping, free tethered umbrella that allows it to gently lift off and drift to the ground in windy conditions.

Another major consideration is the color and translucency of the umbrella material. White, black, grey, or some soft neutral tones are best when dealing with anything translucent. Bright colors will reflect onto the painting, affecting its appearance. Some painters want the little bit of soft light emitted from the translucent material, especially dry-medium artists like pastelists who don’t have to compete with the shiny glare off their painting surface. Others prefer a sun-block material, often black on the inside and reflective on the topside, helping to keep things cool in severe summer conditions. These sun-block umbrellas can also prove useful in severely bright painting locations, like high-altitude locales.

It's always advisable to fold down the umbrella when walking away from your easel for a period of time and to set your pastel palette on the ground. Coming back after a break to find your materials strung across the countryside can deter even the best of painters from wanting to venture out.
 
When making your umbrella decisions, seek out the opinions of other artists. This can save a few headaches in the field and monies (that can be used to purchase more pastels). Check the latest advertisements for new models. There are always improvements being made, and many of the current models are vastly improved over their predecessors. Every time I gather with other outdoor painters, there is some new-and-improved umbrella being used, which I immediate feel I have to acquire, knowing it will make my paintings better! If not better, it will at least make the experience more pleasant!

Pictured above: A freestanding tripod umbrella setup (homemade), the “Shadebuddy”  ground-staked setup, and two collapsible clamp-on umbrellas.



7/21/2008 10:15:05 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6]
 Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Seeking Shade
Posted by richard

Kimono.jpgOne of the issues faced by every artist when working en plein air (on location) is shade. Not so much for ourselves, although that can be important, but for our painting and palette. Finding a balance between too much and too little shade can be hard in ever changing situations. What we hope for is something between those extremes, with a bit of consistency.

While in Montana recently for a workshop (see photo), I observed many students struggling with a variety of lighting situations and painting-umbrella setups. Since I have had my share of struggles with the same issues, I thought it might prove helpful to share a few observations. The perfect scenario is to find a large area of open shade that provides an equal amount of light on the painting surface and palette. By having consistent light on both, selecting the proper pastel stick for the desired task, and having it look the same on the painting surface, will become easier. What needs to be avoided when looking for this situation is the “cave effect”—too little light, or the “blast”—too much. If there is too little light, the painting will become overly light and bright. Too much produces a dark dull finished painting. Finding that balance can be a bit tricky.

It is best to position yourself so that there is open space behind you with shade being  provided from either side. If you have to work in an exposed setting, it is advisable to turn your painting surface so that it is not receiving full sunlight. Take time to figure out in which direction the sun is traveling. Then turn your easel so that the direct sunlight won’t creep onto the painting as time goes by. These exposed situations often leave our pastel palette in full or dappled sunlight. This is when an umbrella setup can become invaluable, providing a soft cast shadow over the palette. The other option is to work in full sunlight, placing both the painting surface and palette in direct light. Remember that it is very easy to make bad value/hue choices in this situation. One tip that has always proved helpful is to frequently take the painting down from the easel and analysis it under different lighting. This scrutiny may save hours of misguided value  and color choices.

Overcoming the abundance or scarcity of the lighting situation can take years to master. Even the best of us make poor choices from time to time and have to deal with the consequences. Finding a painting umbrella setup that works for your individual needs is not always easy. Just like the perfect easel or palette box, we are always 
looking for the most compact, sturdy, and affordable model available. In the next blog I will share a few observations about the ones with which I have a history.





7/15/2008 6:27:31 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2]
 Monday, July 07, 2008
The Importance of Neutrals
Posted by Richard

49-neutrals-revisited.jpgNearly a year ago in the August 06, 2007 blog, I addressed how important a section of “neutrals” is to my pastel palette. These are weaker intensity hues, often looking greyer than the pure intense hues of their origin color family. (Since most of our pastels come from Europe, you'll find the British spelling of “grey” instead of the 
Americanized “gray” being used.) These greyed tones are the backbone of most of my work and I can’t stress their importance enough. Smaller commercial sets of pastels are often made up of intense colors. These are visually appealing and sell well, but can lead to a lot of repetition of pure hues in our pastel palettes. These intense palettes easily produce overly saturated paintings, which lack the comparative beauty of greyed hues in juxtaposition with intense hues.

When selecting neutral tones for your pastel palette, consider where they'll most often be employed. For the substructure, a harder stick will work best: Girault and Rembrandt are good choices. On the other hand, if being used for final accents, a softer stick might work better: Schmincke and Unison make excellent choices. Check the color charts of the brands you're interested in. Brands that offer a large selection of colors usually have the widest range of greyed tones. In the course of many workshops, when singing the praises of these “neutral” tones, I'm often asked if there is a set or brand I recommend. Two brands that I have had considerable experience with  and which offer a wide, well-organized assortment of greyed tones (neutrals) are: Girault (a harder pastel, but not too hard) and Schmincke (a soft consistent pastel). Girault has made it easy by offering two sets, one of 25 greys and the other consisting of 50 greys, which I highly recommend. (The set is pictured here along with a few individual Schmincke and Rembrandt pastels.) Schmincke offers as individual sticks a range of greyed hues at different values: grey-green, grey-blue, grey-violet and so on. Supplementing these with a few individual neutrals from other brands completes my palette.

No matter what brand you prefer, find those lovely subtle neutral tones and put them to work in expanding the tonal range of your work. The  brighter colored accents in your paintings will be happy you did.




7/7/2008 2:42:46 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]