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 Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Shipping Pastels, Continued
Posted by richard
 Since there was so much to discuss concerning the safe shipment of a pastel, I wanted to pick up where I left off in last week's post. For added protection when packaging a framed pastel for shipment, place it in a strong clear plastic bag. This provides extra moisture protection and helps protect the frame from abrasion. If you're using a homemade box, add thick cardboard sheets to the front and back of the painting. Make these slightly larger than the frame for extra puncture protection. Before sealing the box, make sure you have enclosed all required information. For an exhibition, this might include the entry form, fees, return information (return label and shipping forms), and any pther special instructions. Place these in a manila envelope and tape it to the plastic bag covering the painting. This makes it easy to find. If you have a box that you wish to be returned even if the painting sells, make sure to note this in the enclosed information. When labeling the box, print legibly and be sure to include phone numbers. Mark the top/front, in hopes that the carrier will transport the painting face up or in a vertical position. Be sure to note that the contents are fragile and should be handled with care (See photo above of a package with shipping labels and paperwork). If you plan to frequently ship works, set up an account with FedEx or UPS. This makes return billing less of a hassle. Expenses will be charged to your account, allowing the shipping agent to simply affix the label to the return package and arrange for pick-up. Personally, I find FedEx to be a pleasure. I spend the extra amount for air service, providing prompt efficient service with less time for a package to be bounced from truck to truck. Insurance can be an issue. Some carriers will not insure works under glass, while others restrict the value to the creating artist to no more than $500 per box. Educate yourself in advance as to the liabilities of your carrier. If you plan on shipping works frequently, it might be advisable to acquire separate supplemental insurance to cover your paintings. In this modern age, it's easy to follow the journey of the painting as it makes its way to the final destination by using the tracking number from the shipping label. Having an account allows me to receive an email notification automatically when shipments have been delivered. I print this out and file it with the entry information. Accidents will happen. That is why we have insurance. However, a little effort on our part to pack our painting well and organize our information goes a long way in helping to facilitate a painting’s safe arrival. Who knows, maybe it will sell and all you’ll have to deal with is the return of an empty box; it happens!
5/27/2008 4:11:09 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, May 19, 2008
Shipping Pastels (A Fragile Matter)
Posted by richard
 This topic will be broken (no pun intended) into two blogs: the first One will concern boxing a painting for shipment; the second will cover record-keeping and other considerations when a painting leaves your hands. Shipping artwork is always nerve-racking. If you want to participate in national and international exhibitions, you’ll need to employ a suitable shipping method to accommodate your precious pastel paintings. Having helped with the intake of artwork for some of these exhibits, I could tell you more than a few horror stories of artist’s work showing up with broken glass, damaged frames, and pastel dust all over the inside surface of the mat and glass. Pastel artists have worked for years to gain the respect afforded the other mediums. Exhibiting work that shows any of these problems does a huge disservice to the pastel community’s reputation, and reinforces the public belief that pastel is fragile and not as permanent as other media. Since pastel must be protected with either glass or Plexiglas, the container should be rigid enough to withstand the rigors of shipping. Commonly, cardboard is utilized and occasionally plywood. The advantage of cardboard is its weight. If the painting is at all large, plywood will become quiet heavy and ends up being prone to mistreatment by the carrier. Some shippers are now adding a surcharge if wood containers are used. If you’re shipping to exhibitions, you will want to invest in something that can be returned at the end of the exhibit if the work is unsold. There are companies that specialize in making boxes for this purpose, producing strong, easy to use, returnable boxes (see my packaged painting in a box by Airfloat Systems in the photo above, for example). If you plan on make your own case, put some thought into the ease of opening and repacking, in order to make things easier for the volunteer helping on the receiving end. Make sure, whether your box is commercial or homemade, that it has at a minimum of 2 to 3 inches of space around the painting to adsorb shock. Bubble wrap works well, but foam sheets available at upholstery and fabric stores are even better. Packing peanuts should be avoided as they are difficult to deal with when unpacking and repacking a painting. Many exhibitions are now requiring Plexiglas (plastic), avoiding the possibilities of glass breakage. Plexiglas is prone to warping and on a large painting can easily be pushed against the surface of the pastel. Try to allow as much space as possible between the painting and Plexiglas to prevent this situation. Plexiglas also suffers from electrostatic cling. The act of cleaning the outer surface can produce considerable static, lifting pastel off the surface of the painting. There are plastic cleaners or polishes that help relieve the static buildup and are recommended if Plexiglas is utilized ( Novus 1 Plastic Clean & Shine, for example). Check with your art supply store or local glazer for more information. It is worth noting that Plexiglas, because of its flexible nature, can easily become dislodged from a frame if it’s not fit tightly to the inner frame rabbet, especially on large paintings. If glass glazing is used, it is helpful to use a glass-skin over the outer glass layer to protect the artwork in the event of breakage. This is similar to the protective film found on most new appliances when purchased and is available from many shipping supply companies (such as Airfloat Systems). It’s easily removed with no effect to the glass, and it helps to hold broken shards of glass from falling against the pastel painting should the glass becomes broken in transit (Note that this is not advised for museum glass). Be sure to check back next week for Part 2 of this discussion.
5/19/2008 2:18:37 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, May 12, 2008
Keeping Things Clean
Posted by richard
 Pastels are messy; there's no way around it. The pigment creates dust and easily migrates to other surrounding surfaces. Just as a variety of wet pigments produce gray (or mud) when over-mixed, so too does the pastel dust. Since I don't appreciate the deception of a pastel stick appearing one color and ending up another, I've developed practices that keep my sticks as clean as possible. The two biggest factors involved in this are one, the storage/carrying box, and two, our hands. If a pastel storage container allows for movement, the sticks will inevitably bump into each other, creating contamination. The more stable your pastel case, the cleaner the contents will be. This is another reason for segregating your colors and values into close relationships. With the variety of travel pastel boxes available, it's easy to find a strong case capable of sandwiching your pastel sticks securely, providing a minimum of movement when transported. Another storage method is plastic containers with airtight lids. Fill these with a moderate amount of rice or corn meal and place the individual sticks in the container. The grains act as a cushion and natural cleaning agent. This is also employed for cleaning pastels that become contaminated. Place them in the container with the grain and gently shake the contents. When you remove the sticks, they'll be clean. Since I use a travel pastel case for my pastel palette ( click here to refer to my previous blog on my palette), I experience little migration of pigment, meaning infrequent cleaning. A useful method, short of removing all the individual sticks, is to place a window screen (available at most hardware stores) over the open case and gently vacuum (see photo). This pulls the loose dust up and out of the case, helping to keep the contents fresh and bright. Make sure the vacuum has a micro-filter and doesn’t blow the fine pigment dust out the exhaust. Airborne pigment is the major health concern for pastel artists, so use caution. Another useful habit is to keep a Viva-brand paper towel in your non-painting hand. When finished with an individual stick, tap it against the towel (gently cleaning its surface) before placing it back in the palette. Then wipe your hand on the towel before picking up the next stick. This diminishes cross-contamination from your hand, keeping the sticks clean. By utilizing these two procedures, I find it necessary to remove all the contents of the pastel box only once a year for a thorough cleaning. And I have the added benefit of knowing what the pastel stick really looks like; no wolves in sheep clothing for me!
5/12/2008 11:58:13 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, May 05, 2008
An Artist's Signature
Posted by richard
 Placing your John Hancock on a painting is the ultimate statement of pride and ownership. Some artists choose to prominently display it for the whole world to see, while others opt for a subtle approach, making it barely visible. Like so many aspects of paintings, it's personal. The signature is a natural part of the visual composition and should be thought of in those terms. The main things to consider are placement, size, value, color, style and content. Traditionally, the lower right-hand corner is the spot for the signature. When we read a written page, we end at the bottom right; thus this location feels like a natural end-point in Western culture. If, due to the content of the composition, this isn't a suitable location however, look to the lower left, and then consider the upper right and left corners. Remember to consider the matting or frame when positioning; otherwise, you may be cutting it off or setting too close to the edge. The size of the signature definitely makes a statement, and moderation is recommended. You want the viewer to see and appreciate the painting before your name. If it can be read from across the room, it might be too large. The value and color of the signature should complement the painting. I recommend choosing a value either slightly darker or lighter than the surrounding area. For the color, I prefer something neutral that pertains to the dominant color scheme of the painting. Historically, a popular color choice was red, which could be near the value of the area upon which it would rest, yet stand out and be recognized. It was especially useful for the illustrative market as red photographed darker in black and white, making it stand out when reproduced. The style of a signature also makes an artistic comment. The two extremes are the signature as handwriting and block printed. A beautifully hand-scripted signature relates the flair of the artist it represents, just as our individual signature does. The simple block printed signature makes for an unobtrusive, easily read, statement of authenticity. I have used both, migrating to the simpler blocked style over the years. Placing your full name or just the last name is again a matter of personal choice. What is advisable is to never use just a first name or nickname. This informality lowers the viewers respect for the piece. In the past, due to gender bias, many women used just their last name as a way of increasing sales and desirability, as the market would accommodate higher prices for works by men over women. Hopefully, this is no longer a concern. When signing our pastels, a few methods may be employed. Pastel pencils offer a ready tool in a variety of colors and values. Harder pastel sticks can be sharpened to a fine point facilitating easy application. Even a simple carbon pencil can do the job (The photo shows a drawing pencil, pastel pencil and hard pastel sharpened to a point; all good options for your signature). If there is a heavy build-up of pastel in the area where you wish to sign your name, you might have to use a softer pastel stick. This isn't easily accomplished when a delicate aesthetic is desired. A light spray of fixative to the signature area, or a gentle scraping off of some of the pastel may prove helpful. Whichever style or method you choose to use for signing your pastels, do it with pride. You deserve the credit for having created something for the whole world to enjoy. Bravo! Check out my latest "Pastel Pointers" column in the May/June issue of The Pastel Journal.
5/5/2008 11:36:58 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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