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 Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Seeing Red
Posted by richard

39-seeing-red.jpg
One of my favorite sayings about art is: "Color gets the glory and value does the work." Most of us love color. We're drawn to it hoping to accomplish something expressive in our paintings. However, if the value structure (the relative lightness and darkness) is wrong, all the pretty colors housed in our pastel cases won't work, and the painting will fall short. If you're one of the fortunate painters that has a keen eye for value—congratulations! If, on the other hand, you're among the many that work diligently analyzing value ranges, I have a couple of tips that might help.

First, convert your reference to a value scale. If you're working with photo reference, you can digitally convert it to a gray scale and remove all traces of color. This will instantly show you the value relationships of all the individual elements in the scene. Another option, if you have a color photograph, is to scan it into your computer and then convert it to gray scale or go down to your local copy center and use one of the better copy machines. This isn't as accurate as converting your own digital files but still serves a useful purpose. Remember that any photographic reference has its limitations; value ranges are never exact to what the human eye is capable of seeing. Shadows are often extremely dark and lights get blown out. So use these black-and-white representations as a generalization.

Second, when you're working from life, employ a piece of red plastic. Red has its limitations but serves well for most outdoor situations. The majority of landscapes are saturated with green, blue, and gray, allowing the red plastic to neutralize the color and producing a monochromatic image in appearance. When painting in the Southwest, which has bright reds and oranges, green plastic is useful. Holding this up and scrutinizing the scene, as well as your painting, will help remind you of the relative value range. This allows us to use all the color we wish without compromising the structural form. For travel, I clip a square of red plastic onto a plastic viewer (see photo). These viewers are available commercially. The versatile “Picture Perfect 3-in-1 Plus” viewer can be found at www.pictureperfectviewfinder.com.

Though far from 100 percent accurate, these exercises serve as helpful tools in removing the stimulation of color, and have helped many a value-challenged artist produce strong sound work. With practice, you'll acquire the ability to intuitively access value. In the meantime,  “seeing red” can really help.

Check out my latest "Pastel Pointers" column in the May/June issue of The Pastel Journal.




4/29/2008 1:42:21 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2]
 Monday, April 21, 2008
A Little Black Tape and a Signature
Posted by richard

38-blacktape-signature.jpgEven with the best of intentions, it's easy to overwork a painting. We become so involved in the process with new ideas emerging, we over fuss and miss the best stopping point. Clever methods can be employed to put the brakes on. Here are a couple of my favorites.

The first is placing a signature on the painting when it reaches a point of having merit. This simple act can have a profound effect on how you view the painting as you continue to paint. It makes a statement that you are proud of the piece and are accepting ownership. Because we work in pastel, it's easy to grab a pastel pencil or even a drawing pencil and place your mark. Later if you wish to move it or change its appearance, it's easily smeared and lifted, allowing for adjustment.

A dear artist friend of mine, Marge Levine, exposed me to the second tool one day during a plein air workshop I was giving. After making the rounds a couple of times, I noticed that her pastel painting had acquired a clean black border. I was amazed at how my attitude towards the painting changed when I saw it presented cleanly, much the way a slide is presented in a juried event. The dirty smudged and ragged edges were gone and the painting felt finished. Marge explained that it was pH neutral masking tape and was available from most fine art stores. If there is a slight margin around the painting, it's easy to run a strip along each side, quickly representing a framed appearance. In the past I had relied on studio frames when working indoors, old knock-a-rounds that could easily be placed for a finished effect. With the tape, however, it's easy to pack a roll to take out on location and have the same experience.

Both of these tools have become an intrinsic part of my working method. When I feel a sense of accomplishment with the painting, I stop and place my name. Then out comes the pH neutral black masking tape (The painting pictured here shows the black tape, and features a simple pencil signature). Suddenly, a clean presentation is before me. I look at the painting differently. Its context has changed and I find I'm near completion. The exercise reminds me of an advertisement for insurance I saw years ago. It was a two-page ad. The first showed a messy attic with items strewn around in varying stages of disarray. In the corner you can make out a painting falling out of its frame and covered in dust. On the next page you see the inside of a fine museum with the same painting hanging elegantly on a well-illuminated wall with the caption: “It is all about the context in which it is viewed."

See my latest "Pastel Pointers" column in the May/June 2008 issue of The Pastel Journal on sale on the website this week, and on newsstands May 13.


4/21/2008 11:27:31 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2]
 Monday, April 14, 2008
Pushing Around Pastel
Posted by richard

"Ay, there’s the rub." —Hamlet

37-rubbing-tools.jpgTo rub or not to rub is a personal artistic choice. Different surfaces, pastel brands and tools will create varied results. Experimentation is always recommended. When choosing a tool, many simply use the most convenient—the hands. If you do use your hands, you should employ some precautions. Sanded surfaces can be especially brutal, often leading to major skin abrasions, and you want to avoid any chance of assimilating any toxic pigments into the bloodstream. Artist barrier creams, such as Gloves in a Bottle, are helpful and should be applied in advance of a painting session. Latex gloves are another popular solution. Personally, I've never been able to get use to the feel of gloves when painting, so I opt for the barrier creams and frequent hand washings.

Other favorite tools for rubbing include a leather chamois, foam packing peanuts, plastic grocery store bags, foam pipe insulation and paper towels (see photo above). When using a leather chamois, you'll find that it responds very similarly to human skin. Since it becomes dirty easily, frequent cleaning is a necessity. Holding on to one corner, beat it against a rigid surface—and be careful not to inhale the dust. Foam packing peanuts, foam pipe insulation and plastic grocery bags share a commonality: They don’t pick up a lot of the pigment; they tend to push it into the surface, instead of wiping it off. Artist Terry Ludwig, maker of Terry Ludwig pastels, introduced me to the foam pipe insulation a few years ago and it has become a personal favorite. Simply tear off a little piece (a tube from the hardware store will last a lifetime) and push the pastel around as if you were using a brush. A general softening will occur with minimal dusting.

Paper towels have been another favorite of many artists and, without a doubt, Viva brand is the most popular. Once the towel is allowed to pick up a little of the pastel off the surface, it becomes a very useful tool for softening and smearing the pigment into the surface. I keep a piece in my left hand at all times and gently tap the pastel stick I'm using against it before returning it to the palette. This habit has helped to keep my sticks clean.

The physical action of pushing, smearing and rubbing pastel can create a soft, ethereal quality often associated with the medium. For this reason, many shun the practice and prefer layering one pastel color on top of another, producing considerable vibrancy. Just as wet paint worked with a brush produces a soft, melted appearance that can easily become muddy, so too can an over-rubbed pastel. Yet, there are times when a softened appearance will strengthen the finished statement and serve the purpose of an underpainting. For these reasons, pastel artists will continue to experiment with an array of objects to spread, smear and rub the pastel around their working surfaces, often leading to fascinating techniques and beautiful outcomes. If you have a special way of pushing the pigment around, please post a comment. (To post a comment, click the Comments link below. It will prompt you for your email address, but it isn't required to submit.)




4/14/2008 11:12:56 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [8]
 Monday, April 07, 2008
When Homemade Is Best
Posted by richard

36-making-surfaces.jpgWe're fortunate to be painting in a time when there are so many wonderful pastel surfaces commercially  available. In the Dark Ages of pastel—not so long ago actually—it was a necessity to know how to make your own, especially if you required a sanded surface. But even with the proliferation of available surfaces today, there are times when a homemade surface fills the bill.

To create a homemade, sanded pastel surface, you'll need the a substrate and the ground components (binder, grit and, optionally, a tone):

Substrate: This is the surface that the abrasive material will be adhered to. The major consideration here is the archival nature of the product. Heavy paper or hardboard surfaces are favorites. When choosing a paper, make sure it's strong enough to withstand your technique and the wet application of the sanded grit. If it's too thin, it will buckle and warp. This can often be remedied with a thin application of acrylic binder to the backside. Watercolor and printmaking papers of 100% cotton-rag content work well. If a rigid surface is your preference, wood-fiber hardboards or Gatorboard will be more to your liking. Both of these substrates should be sealed first with a coat of acrylic to protect the surface from acidic migration over time. A quick coat of acrylic gesso or painting medium will suffice. Apply the sanded grit and you've produced a rigid pastel sanded board that's easy for travel and easy to frame.

Binder: An acrylic polymer works well. Strong, yet flexible, it holds the grit and dries quickly. Acrylic gesso produces a white surface that's nice for most underpainting techniques, and acrylic painting medium can be used when a clear solution is preferred. These can be used full-strength, producing more textured results or thinned slightly with water to smooth. Many artists enjoy using creative brush strokes when applying the ground mixture, as they utilize the brushstroke texture in their finished work.

Grit: Traditionally, pumice or Rottenstone powder have been the grits of choice. Pumice comes in varying degress of coarseness: 2F, 3F and 4F are the most widely used. Experiment to see which works best for you. Pumice can be found in most hardware stores and many art supply stores, such as Dakota Art Pastels. Marble dust (calcium carbonate), also available at most art supply stores, can be used when a softer grit surface is desired.

Tone: Toning the surface is achieved by the addition of any acrylic color. Remember that acrylic dries slightly darker than it appears when wet. Mix colors together until a desired result is achieved.

Finding just the right proportion of the above ingredients in your ground mixture is an individual choice. I recommend starting with 1 cup of binder and adding 3 tablespoons of grit. Weaken this with as little water as necessary; too much water and the binder may be broken, compromising the adhesion. Test this result, and then adjust the proportions to suit your needs.

The mixture may be applied in a variety of fashions. A smaller paintbrush will produce more brush tracks and texture, while a larger brush will provide a more even application. Bristles brushes tend to create a slightly uneven appearance while nylon brushes produce more uniformity.

My favorite homemade surface is on Gatorbaord using a ground made up of acrylic gesso and pumice, toned with either a warm brown or a warm green acrylic (see photo of materials and finished boards). If I need a black surface, I use acrylic medium and black acrylic paint with the pumice. I prefer to brush it on using a soft bristle brush, alternating the application direction between layers. This produces a soft woven appearance similar to portrait grade linen.

Feel free to experiment. Try new surfaces, binders, grits, and tones. The bonus to a homemade surface is it allows us to accommodate our individual style, and we don’t have to worry about them being out of stock or discontinued!

If you'd like to read more of my thoughts about choosing supports and my favorite recipes for ground mixtures, see the special report "From the Ground Up" in the August 2006 issue of The Pastel Journal.







4/7/2008 1:28:25 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]