Free Updates

Let us tell you when new posts are added!

Email:

Navigation

Search

Archives

<October 2009>
SunMonTueWedThuFriSat
27282930123
45678910
11121314151617
18192021222324
25262728293031
1234567

Categories

Links










# Monday, October 05, 2009
Why a Painter Needs to Think Like a Sculptor
Posted by richard

113-topography.jpg
Working on a one-dimensional surface has its challenges. As magical as it can be to create the illusion of depth and form upon a flat surface, there are many lessons to be learned from the sculptor. The debate as to which is the nobler of the arts is one that can be traced as far back as the Renaissance. I won't venture into the debate here but will note that each has its important lessons.
 
I learned one such lesson many years ago and it has had a profound effect on my paintings every since. When starting out as a painter, I spent considerable time learning to draw and paint the portrait. After some years of effort, I had obtained a modicum of ability and, being young of years, felt I knew everything there was to know about art in general. As the years have ticked by, however, this has been greatly disproved. Because I was capable of painting a portrait, I decided to try my hand at sculpting the human head. Seated in front of my mound of clay that first day, I began the task. As I closely studied the model and the clay began to take form, I thought to myself: “Wait until the instructor sees my piece; I am going to receive such praise in front of the other students.” Finally, the instructor approached. As I eagerly awaited my impending praise, she leaned over my shoulder and turned the turntable the clay was resting on. As it rotated, I was shocked to discover that I had placed the ears an inch and a half from the eyes in depth. When looking straight on to the subject, that was the visible width but when the head was observed from the side, it was apparent the distance was closer to four or five inches in depth. This was a revelation! The sculptor deals in literal depth and the painter has to create the illusion. The painter must think like a sculptor, while the sculptor thinks like a sculptor.
 
Applying this to our paintings can be difficult. We become involved in the visual widths and heights of the objects we are painting, forgetting that they also have depth. Only an inch or two of a field may be visible, yet it represents one or two miles of distance. One means of reminding ourselves of the surfaces we are dealing with is to apply faint topographic lines on the initial drawing before attempting the painting. This simple visualization, though lost as the painting is started, is then internalized and we make wiser choices when dealing with the elements of edge, value, and color; ultimately producing a painting that has greater depth.
 
[pictured above] Before beginning the painting, apply simple topography lines to a drawing to assist in the visualization of form and depth.




Monday, October 05, 2009 10:33:52 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [3]
# Monday, September 28, 2009
Confronting a Gallery's Pastel Objections
Posted by richard

112-galleries-and-pastels.jpg
One of the goals many pastel painters have is to be represented by a nice gallery. We all seek validation for our efforts, and seeing our works nicely displayed, well illuminated, and — hopefully — sold is rewarding. Sadly, works under glass often face considerable prejudice from many galleries. Add to that the perceived fragility of pastel and this becomes even more of an issue. After many years of building gallery relationships, I have a few observations to share:
 
If a gallery represents a majority of works on canvas, they will be more receptive to displaying works that are presented in a similar fashion. Current trends are heavily weighted towards the plein air or Impressionist's frames of the early 1900s. Regions differ, so it's wise to visit a broad cross section of galleries to better see what kind of framing is typical. Since pastel has a close kinship to oil, both being opaque by nature and often applied with bold strokes, presenting it in a similar method to oil paintings can often open doors of opportunity that may be closed to a traditional mat and frame offering. (See my blog post from October 8, 2007, for more on that subject.)
 
The necessity of glass is the most frequently mentioned concern of most galleries. This is a two-fold issue: the reflective glare of glass and the additional difficulty of shipping a piece framed with glass. With the advent of anti-reflective glazing and museum glass, which incorporates UV protection, the first can easily be remedied. Paintings framed with these glass types are often hard to tell from other works on canvas. There's an added cost involved in using these glass products, but prices have been decreasing with the rise in demand. Ask your framer if they might pass on a discount if you buy in volume.

When dealing with the second issue, that of shipping, it's as simple as learning how to properly pack a painting under glass. With a little effort, this can easily be accomplished. I can attest to many pastel works having been shipped, both by myself and from galleries, with no damage. (See two previous posts on shipping methods from May 19, 2008 and May 27, 2008.)
 
The bottom-line, though, is that galleries will only sell what they believe in. If a gallery isn't interested in your work or isn't enthusiastic about pastel, don’t waste your time. Even if your work is displayed, the sales staff will undoubtedly steer patrons to other works. I have had galleries tell me that pastel simply doesn’t sell. This is ironic in the face of considerable sales volume from galleries that represent some of the best pastelists in the country. If a gallery simply isn’t interested in displaying works under glass, for whatever reason, there's no point in trying to convince them otherwise. If, on the other hand, they like your work and are sure it would sell but are concerned about the fact that it's pastel, a little education may convince them to give it a chance. And, if they present the work with confidence, their patrons will believe in it as well.
 
[pictured above] A pastel painting framed in a traditional oil painting manner with anti-reflection museum glass.




Monday, September 28, 2009 2:47:48 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [2]
# Monday, September 21, 2009
What’s In a Number? Selecting Your Pastel Palette
Posted by richard

111-limited-palette.jpg
How many pastel sticks does one need to do a painting? This question frequently comes up among pastel artists and is a popular topic of discussion on community websites like Wet Canvas.

Pastel is unique among media in that it is applied dry. Wet media, like watercolor and oil, are easily intermixed, creating a variety of hues, values and chromas. Because of their abilities to mix pigments, allowing them to achieve a full color spectrum, wet-media painters can get by with as little as three tubes of color plus white. Because of pastel’s dry nature, however, mixing individual pastel sticks doesn’t produce the same results.

Layering one color on top of another and crosshatching techniques can expand pastels' range, but more than three sticks of color will be needed to produce satisfactory results. This leads us back to the question: How many pastels are enough? What a working palette has to provide is the ability to represent the three elements of color: hue, value and chroma. In other words, we need to be able to create the full spectrum of the color wheel, a range of lighter and darker values within that spectrum, and grayer versions of those colors. (For more on this, check out my blog posts from August 6, 2007 and August 11, 2008, or the Pastel Pointers column in the February 2009 issue of The Pastel Journal).
 
Many pastel painters amass huge collections of pastels over a lifetime. They attempt to expand their palettes, feeling that there is always something missing—that certain subtle color or value. With the availability of more pastel brands, there are more choices than ever before. Manufacturers have started mixing pigments together, instead of relying on just the addition of black and white to one pigment to create value variations. These mixed pigment sticks have greatly helped in matching the quality of perceived color versus a total reliance on one pigment. This is most evident in the family of green.

As comforting as it might be to have every pastel available on the market, it can also prove to be overwhelming and confusing. This often leads to unharmonious pastel marks and a fragmented painting. As the old saying goes; less is more. To set up a limited palette of pastels, start by selecting a value range of the basic color wheel colors. It can be limited to the three primary and three secondary colors or expanded to take in the tertiary colors. Have at least five values of each color family. This would be approximately 30 to 60 pastel sticks (Maggie Price Basic Values Set, available from Terry Ludwig Pastels is an example of this concept). Next, add grayed versions of the color families in a few values. Good gray sets are available from a variety of manufacturers, including Girault, Unison, Great American and Mount Vision. This limited palette would be somewhere between 48 and 78 sticks. While many successful paintings can be done with far fewer pastels, this palette, with some overlapping and at times a little compromising, will allow you to represent the basic quality of light in all its varied settings.
 
[pictured above] A limited pastel palette of 78 sticks for landscape painting that I put together for Great American pastels.




Monday, September 21, 2009 2:56:38 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [3]
# Monday, September 14, 2009
Digital Thumbnail Sketch
Posted by richard

110-digital-thumbnail-sketch.jpg
Understanding the elements of a scene before attempting to paint is crucial to a successful outcome. The abstract design of shapes, angles, values and colors all play a major part in why one painting works and another fails. Often we're attracted to the story of the scene but don’t put enough effort into understanding its essence. A winding country road with a charming grove of trees in the distance might be appealing in story content but lacking in other key elements that provide balance and harmony. As I mentioned in a blog post about thumbnails from July 20 2009, these underlying visual elements can be the make or break of a painting.
 
As important as thumbnail sketches can be, many painters still choose to ignore them and jump headlong into the painting without an understanding of the underlying strengths and weaknesses of the scene. This is especially true when working en plein air. Because everything is changing, painters become anxious to get started. The excitement and anticipation can be paramount to holding a thoroughbred horse in the starting gate before a race. But there's a solution. When you feel like you don’t have time to physically do thumbnail sketches, there's a modern tool that can quickly provide similar information: the compact digital camera. Take a series of reference exposures of the considered scene and scroll back through them using the LCD screen on the back of the camera. If color is a distraction, you can adjust the camera to take grey scale (black and white) images or convert color images after the fact. Hold the camera at arms length to mineralize the picture size. View the images in a shaded area when working in extreme sunlight. While scrolling, look for visual impact. If you still have a hard time ignoring the story content of the picture, close one eye and squint. Strong patterns of value and shape will be noticeable, making it easier to see which images have the strongest elements to work with. This provides something to hold onto throughout the painting, reminding you of the abstract relationships that hold the painting together. You understand the big picture.

While it's always better to devote preparation time to a series of thumbnail sketches in advance of painting, for those times when you just can’t wait, a quick digital review will expedite the process, providing a quick glimpse a scene's visual elements without the story line interfering.

[pictured above] This shows one of my reference photos, viewed at arms length, while painting on location.

Read Richard's column about an intuitive approach to underpaintings in the October issue of The Pastel Journal available here.


Monday, September 14, 2009 7:15:50 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [5]
# Tuesday, September 08, 2009
Reflecting on Reflections
Posted by richard

109-reflections.jpg
Artists have been attracted to reflections throughout history. We all admire what Monet did with the reflections of the Houses of Parliament as well as the famous water lily series. This attraction to reflections was certainly an impetus for my painting, Winter Canal (left; pastel, 12x12).

Contemporary pastel artist, Fred Somers, from Minnesota, has also done some very interesting and intriguing paintings of reflections on water—such as his painting, Gold Leaf on Crimson Waters (pastel, 18x24) below. (To learn more about Somers, see the feature on the artist in the October issue of The Pastel Journal, and visit his website).

7208_167225l.jpgAs beautiful as reflections are, there are a few observations about them that are often overlooked by the novice painter:

1. Reflections are not a mirror reflection of the scene. You are seeing the reflected images and the scene in front of you from two different viewing angles. The reflection is coming off the surface of the water, but you see the reflection from an angle as far below the water's surface as you are above it. Depending on your visual height compared to the reflective surface, this can vary considerably. If you are six feet tall and standing on the edge of the reflective body, the reflection would be coming from a distance of six feet below the surface of the water. In other words, the reflection is showing you the underside of what you can see and, due to its angle, may cut off things you are capable of seeing in the distance. This is evident when looking at a distant mountain across a lake but only a tip of it reflects below the tree line along the shore. From the water surface, the mountain would not be visible, but to you it is very clear. Think of the reflection as being you, submerged in the water, looking up. The angle of vision is greatly different than what you see eye-level from the shore. This is more pronounced when closer to the reflection and becomes less noticeable at great distances.
 
2. Generally, darks reflect slightly lighter and lights slightly darker. Depending on the clarity of the water, this can be more or less pronounced. Color will be affected by the surface tone and is rarely brighter in chroma than what is being reflected.
 
3. All reflections move towards you. A reflection takes three components: the objects reflecting, the surface they are reflecting on, and you. You are the component most often left out of the recipe. Reflections travel towards your eyes and will appear to follow you when you move. To best see this, go to a boat basin and look at the reflections of tall upright poles in the water. As they reflect, the tops (which are at the bottom of the reflection) appear to come towards your feet. This can be subtle but is a fact of reflections.
 
4. Edges should be softer than the reflecting objects. Due to the refractive nature of even the stillest water, edges should be slightly softened. Sparkles on the surface of the water should also be softened and radiate from near white to a slight orange yellow as the light is being bent. As light hits the surface of the water, it is shattered. Try not to paint those perfect little white dots that photography is capable of capturing. The human eye is not a camera lens and shutter.
 
By looking for these tendencies, you will become more sensitive to the true nature of reflections and your paintings will manifest a more natural appearance.




Tuesday, September 08, 2009 7:05:45 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [2]
# Monday, August 31, 2009
Plein Air Permission
Posted by richard

108-plein-air-permission.jpg
While demonstrating for a workshop in upstate New York a couple of weeks ago, I was reminded of one of the major benefits of working en plein air: permission to interpret. As I worked out a thumbnail sketch in advance of committing pastel to surface, the task of editing began. I established a center of interest within the framework of the composition and then manipulated other elements of visual composition—edge, shape, texture, value, and color—to strengthen its presence. I altered or even ignored major elements in the scene as the composition took form.

108-photo-reference.jpgAfter feeling confident about the bones of the painting, the process of applying pastel to surface commenced. If I have a good idea of the big relationships and purpose behind the painting in advance of starting, it's easier to focus on the technique of painting, which allows for a more confident application. That assured feeling often comes through, producing a more spontaneous and positive end result. As the painting developed and these manipulations became more apparent to the students paying close attention, one of them made an observation: “It looks like you do what is best for the painting, instead of being subservient to the scene.” And indeed. that's what painting is. We do what is needed, manipulating and orchestrating the elements of the painting to best communicate our intensions about the scene.
 
This student’s observation got me thinking. A few days after the event, I compared the photo from the scene to the finished painting. The photo appeared cold and boring. If I hadn’t been there in person, I would never have given this photo a second glance. When in the presence of the unlimited possibilities of nature, we have two choices: to feel completely overwhelmed and cower before it, or to open the door of chance and allow all it has to offer to provide inspiration. Being surrounded by natural light that's always in motion and the influences of the entire setting, even the areas outside of our view, all have an effect. By practicing and applying the principles of composition, light and dark relationships, and color theory, we're able to harness the power of the paint and become more confident and free to make choices that lead to personal artistic statements. No one gets a prize for making it exactly the way it was.
 
[pictured top] The Fields of the Hudson (pastel, 10x14) and the reference photo of the scene.




Monday, August 31, 2009 3:11:15 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [5]
# Monday, August 24, 2009
Painting Camaraderie
Posted by richard

107-bendOR-thunderstorm[1].jpg
Painting can be a very isolating and lonely experience. We painters work intensely on our paintings, often alone for major periods of time. Even when loved ones are present, we seek the camaraderie of those that paint. We have a shared bond, one forged in the depths of technical and conceptual struggle. There is an unspoken commonality.

Participating in weekly classes, workshops and critique groups are helpful. Here we find painting buddies and form artistic friendships. Joining a pastel organization is another way of reaching out to others that share a common interest. Most states have an organization and some have multiple. A quick Google search will provide information on what is available in your region. You can also check the member pastel societies listings on the International Association of Pastel Societies (IAPS) web site for one that may be close to you. If you belong to an organization that is a member of IAPS, plan to attend the international convention that is held every two years. The next will be in Albuquerque, New Mexico, in early June 2011. This is a wonderful way of connecting with a variety of artists from all over the world.

If there is no organization in your vicinity and travel is prohibitive, you can stay connected with the pastel community through social networking sites like Wet Canvas. Artists are also networking through web sites like Facebook and Twitter. Look for the ArtistsNetwork page on Facebook here (it combines news from The Pastel Journal, The Artist's Magazine and other F+W Media fine art properties). Online communities such as these provide offer artists a sense of connection without leaving home. Of course, a subscription to art magazines like The Pastel Journal, will also keep you abreast of current trends, products, exhibition possibilities, while providing a venue to see what old painting friends have been up to, as well as providing exposure for new emerging artists.
 
I was recently reminded that painting alone could be compared to experiencing a sunset alone. As nice as it might be, it is always better when shared with someone. Near the end of a demonstration during a workshop in Bend, Oregon, the sky turned dark and the threat of rain loomed. Always the plein air optimist (something that has put me in more than a few painting predicaments, I assure you), I opened up a large umbrella and kept painting. “No more than 10 or 15 minutes” is what I told the onlookers. The smart ones packed up and readied themselves for a quick dash to the parking area while I kept on painting. As light rain turned into a pelting downpour and thunder lead to mothball-sized hail, I finished up. Others had kindly held additional umbrellas over my work area to protect the fragile painting and pastel palette. After a mad dash to the car and the rescue of the remaining equipment, a small but totally wet and muddy group of plein air diehards remained. “Looks like it’s letting up,” said one one of the ladies, as she opened a bottle of wine she had safely stowed in the back of her car. Glasses were filled and laughs were had all around as we shared the moment. As wet as we were and as messed up as some of the painting equipment had become, we had shared a wonderful moment together. Alone, it might have been just a disaster, but together it was a plein air moment—one I will not soon forget. Thanks for the wine Lise and thanks for the memories to all you dedicated—albeit wet—painters!
 
[above] Richard McKinley and fellow painters sharing a "tailgate toast."




Monday, August 24, 2009 2:32:05 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [1]
# Monday, August 17, 2009
A New Surface for Pastels
Posted by richard

106-pastelmat-paper.jpg
One of the pleasures of pastel is its ability to be placed on a wide array of surfaces, producing a variety of appearances. A couple of weeks ago, I was at Dakota Art Pastels in Mount Vernon, Wash., teaching a workshop. While there, I was introduced to a new pastel surface with fabulous possibilities. As I entered the warehouse for an afternoon of pastel indulgences, Robyn Williamson and Craig Lemley (owners of Dakota Art Pastels) asked me to try out a sample of a new paper called Pastelmat, which is being introduced in the U.S. by Ladd Forsline and Bernadette Ward of Colorfin in partnership with Armadillo Art and Craft.

The paper is milled by Clairfontaine of France and is available in a variety of colors and sizes. As I touched the surface, I thought: “This paper won’t work for my techniques; it's too smooth and lacks the necessary tooth to hold the pastel for multiple pastel applications," and as I glanced upward, I noticed a slight smile on Robyn and Craig’s faces and a hint of a twinkle in their eyes. “Go ahead; make some pastel marks before you judge the paper,” they encouraged. As pastel was placed to the surface, it was like magic. It grabbed the pastel, retaining a heavy bold indication of the stroke. Multiple applications of pastel could be added without any indication of the tooth being compromised. Trying to smudge the pastel produced no effect. The marks stayed in place. The feel of the paper was like a cross between velour and fine sandpaper.

Next, I wanted to see how it accepted water. Since my painting technique often relies on a watercolor underpainting, or the spreading of pastel with water, it was critical to see how it would respond. The paper accepted the water without a problem and didn’t wrinkle. Brilliantly colored underpaintings were easily produced on the white surface, and the application of pastel over the top was as before, velvety smooth.

Now they knew they had me hooked. The only thing left to ascertain was its archival properties. Happily, I can report that it is produced on an acid-free, 170-lb premium card stock, and is lightfast. Single sheets are available in eight subtle colors, including white and maize (a creamy antique white). Pads of the paper are available in three different sizes with two variations of color combinations and the paper is separated with individual sheets of glassine. The paper is now available at Dakota Art Pastels or 1-888-345-0067. You can also find out more at the Pastelmat website.
 
As the popularity of pastel continues to rise, so will the selection of ready-made surfaces for its application. Each of these surfaces has a unique personality, allowing artists to express themselves with a multitude of techniques. While there may not be one surface for everyone, Pastelmat is surely one I would recommend giving a chance. It has quickly become part of my favorites list.
 
[above] Pastel field sketch painted on Pastelmat paper.




Monday, August 17, 2009 7:39:59 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [6]
# Monday, August 10, 2009
What Is In a Title?
Posted by richard

105-titles.jpg
As I prepare to deliver a group of paintings for an annual gallery feature, I'm faced with the job of giving them titles. Many years ago, that seemed easy. There were so many unused possibilities. Now it can take me days and considerable mental effort to come up with something appropriate and unique.

Each painting is like a child. It deserves a suitable name before going out the door. Often these titles are utilitarian, merely serving as a means of identification for future reference. At other times, they may provide a bigger purpose as a component of the painting’s intention. In fact, some paintings are titled even before starting. We're so motivated to paint the subject that we know its identity in advance of placing pastel to surface. The concept is formed and it becomes a critical part of the process, providing a reminder of the purpose and motivation behind the painting.

Other times the title comes to us while painting. All of a sudden it has an identity and the phrase pops into our head. These titles are often the most poetic in nature. They're formed in the initial concept and best identify our intentions. If I know the title in advance or while working on the painting, I write it down on the border around the painting, or on the back as a reminder. If I need to finish the painting at a later date, I can remember the motivation behind its start and often slip back into the mindset I had.

Then there are those times when we can stare at a finished painting for days without being able to place an appropriate title. These are the times when it's best to remind yourself why you were drawn to the subject in the first place, asking what it was that you wanted to make the viewer feel. Analyze the time of day, time of year, lighting effect, regional area of the scene, and mood you felt when you looked at the subject. Let these help you in the process.

Words have power. We all understand the implications of words such as journey, introspective, quiet, joyous, dance, rhythmic, etc. Using such words in our titles evokes a human response. We influence our audience to look at the painting in a certain way. A couple of examples I have used with simple tree subjects are: Listen, They Whisper and The Poetry of Trees. Both of these titles relate how I felt about the subject matter and, when read by an observer, should influence them to look at the painting in a certain way.
 
Artists have strong opinions concerning the titles of their paintings. Some feel no need to title a work, feeling that they don’t want to influence the observer with a title and preferring to allow them to make their own associations. Others believe it's a vital part of the presentation, helping to advance their concept. Personally, I like to influence the viewer whenever possible with the title. It doesn’t need to be a mundane description but a means to make them look deeper, beyond the superficial for a more profound notion.

What are your thoughts? Please post your comments here.
 
[pictured above] A group of paintings waiting for titles.




Monday, August 10, 2009 2:28:21 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [24]
# Monday, August 03, 2009
The Flatter the Better
Posted by richard

104-flattening-paper.jpg
One issue pastel painters often confront is the flatness of their painting surfaces. Many papers and surfaces are made from cotton rag for archival reasons. As superior as these are, they're also prone to wrinkling and warping when moisture is introduced. Depending on your technique for applying pastel, this can be a major or minor inconvenience. Artists that employ a stroke application with pastel are less bothered than those that swipe the pastel stick across the surface. Often this swiping technique requires the pastel stick to remain in contact with the surface while pressure is varied for effect. If the paper is washboard or irregular, the pastel hits the high points with more force. This deposits a heavier mark, creating a speckled appearance.
 
The weight (or thickness) of the paper as well as mixed-media techniques employing water can exacerbate the wrinkling situation. The heavier the weight of the paper, the less prone to wrinkling and warping it will be. Thin papers, like most charcoal/pastel papers, should be kept as dry as possible or mounted to a rigid substrate in advance of painting. Heavy rag papers, like watercolor papers and some etching papers, can be stretched prior to painting. Follow good watercolor painting procedures for stretching these papers. Sanded papers like Wallis and UART are manufactured on rag or pH neutral papers that are very prone to wrinkling when wetted. For this reason, many artists who work with watercolor or spread pastel with water to produce an underpainting have their papers mounted in advance (see my blog posts on January 14, 2008 and January 21, 2008).

Kitty Wallis, in the literature that accompanies Wallis paper, describes a method of reverse taping and stretching the paper taut when wetted, which allows the paper to dry considerably flatter: Before wetting the surface, turn it backside-up and run a thick strip of tape half over the edge. Flip the paper over (right-side-up) and place it on a secured drawing board. You'll now have a portion of exposed tape with the tacky side facing out. Run an additional strip of tape around the paper adhering to the tape edge and drawing board. Once the paper is wet, the tape can be lifted and the paper gently tugged tight and then reattached to the drawing board. Some methods of mounting paper rely on a moist glue to adhere the paper to the mounting board. These are often prone to bowing once dry. If you're producing your own mounted paper using this method, make sure to place it under heavy weights overnight or until it has had a chance to dry. This can alleviate most of the bow. If it persists, you can try painting the back of the mounting board with an acrylic varnish or paint. Often this will shrink as it dries, pulling the boards back to a flat condition. Another method is to mist the back with a fine spray of water. Place this under heavy weights while wet and allow it to dry. The best way of avoiding bowing is to use a dry-mounting procedure. It may cost a little more but usually produces the flattest outcome.
 
Picture above: Wallis paper with reverse tape showing around the edges; moist mounted Wallis paper in need of flattening; acrylic painting medium and a water spray bottle.




Monday, August 03, 2009 9:08:25 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)  #  Comments [1]
Google Sponsored Links
Sponsored Links