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 Monday, June 15, 2009
The VALUE of Notan
Posted by richard

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In the previous blog post “Light as it Falls on Form,” I discussed the use of value relationships as a means of creating the sculptural aspects of representational painting. For this post, I'd like to talk about the use of value as an element within the compositional layout of a painting. In Japanese, Notan means “dark/light”. The term refers to the harmony that results from the arrangement of dark and light spaces within the composition of the painting. This arrangement reflects the quantity of reflected light, or the massing of varied value tones, to create a design. It is important to separate this from light and shadow, which models individual form. By generalizing abstract areas within the composition into value masses, a better understanding of the overall value-design aesthetic will be understood.97-notan.jpg
 
Getting individual value shapes correct as they apply to an individual object without analyzing the overall arrangement of values throughout the composition often leads to a frustrating day of painting. Before committing to placing pigment to surface, it is advisable to do a few “Notan” or value map sketches in order to understand the design of values. See my example of a photo and the accompanying Notan sketch (here).

Some tips:
• Keep the sketches small to avoid the introduction of unnecessary detail into the equation.
• Generalize areas and mass together similar values to create abstract patterns of value.
• Work with as few values as possible. If associating just dark and light is too confusing, try to limit yourself to no more than three values (a dark, middle and light).

This allows you to scrutinize the overall design and make adjustments in advance of painting. Confront reality with these “Notan” sketches. If it feels better to make the sky darker to balance a composition, do it. Experiment with the possibilities. Don’t become too married to the literal. As for pens, the Tombow brand neutral-grey markers, which come in a variety of values, are one of my favorites for making a quick representation of value masses.

Whatever means you employ for the sketch—pencil, pen or marker—keep it simple and abstract. Allow this tiny sketch to guide your value mass arrangements and then model values throughout the painting to create the individual forms necessary to represent reality, ultimately creating an overall aesthetic of value harmony. To learn more about this concept and its applications, study Arthur Wesley Dow’s book Composition: Understanding Line, Notan and Color, originally published in 1899 but now available from Dover Publications.
 




6/15/2009 4:34:53 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3]
 Monday, June 08, 2009
Light As It Falls on Form
Posted by richard

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A classical art training has many advantages, among which is to learn to see and understand light as it falls on objects. By accurately portraying these values, form and depth are created. One of the ways this is taught is to analyze light on a ball. Begin by acquiring a good size white ball, place it on a flat surface, and position a bright spotlight to strike it from one side. Darken the room to intensify the contrast between light and dark. Then, stand back and study the way the light hits the ball. Identify these areas: the highlight (the shiny spot of light); the area of illumination (the shape that receives the direct light from the source); the halftone (the point where the light begins to bend into shadow); the core shadow (the area where light can’t reach); the reflected light (the place where the light travels beyond the object and reflects back); and finally, the cast shadow (the shadow being cast from the shape of the object).

After these initial observations, slowly walk around the ball and pay attention to how the highlight travels across the surface of the ball while the other value shapes stay put. More or less of one value area may be visible but they aren’t moving; you are. The shiny highlight, though, seems to follow you until the ball is in silhouette. This bit of information provides one of the most profound insights into how light works. It strikes an object, falls across its surface, and creates the appearance of form but the highlight reflects off the surface and comes directly back to you. There are three factors to keep in mind: the angle of the light source, the surface or topography of the objects it is striking, and you. You are part of the equation. Highlights travel to you. To better understand this, try standing by a body of water when sunlight is sparkling off its surface. Look at your feet and you will observe that the highlights are coming to you. Walk along the shore and look again, and you’ll notice that the highlight has followed you. Just as we are always in the middle of our visual space, so too is the viewer of our paintings. Depending on where the light source is in relationship to the objects within our paintings, highlights will reflect off surfaces towards the middle.
 
If you spend time observing and studying the light on the ball, you will never look at a tree or rock the same way. This is why most plein air painters, who race against the moving light, start by placing the shadow shapes in their paintings. By representing the shadows, the position of the light and the surfaces it is striking will be easier to understand. Then you’ll know where to place the highlights.




6/8/2009 1:11:02 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0]
 Monday, June 01, 2009
Picking Up Where We Left Off On an Unfinished Painting
Posted by Richard

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As luxurious as it is to have all the time in the world to work on a painting, it often proves to not be the case. Whether the light changed while we were plein air painting, life commitments interfered, or inspiration was lost, we often aren’t able to bring our paintings to completion while motivated. Sometimes this can prove to be a good thing, taking us away from the compulsion to keep adding marks for the sake of adding marks when, with evaluation, we find it nearly complete, if not done. For those other times when considerable work is left undone, it may prove hard, if not nearly impossible, to find that initial inspiration again. When confronted with this situation, I have found a few useful tools for picking up where an unfinished painting was abandoned.
 
First, remind yourself of the theme of the painting. Why did you start it in the first place? This is an invaluable key throughout the whole of the painting process. It keeps us on track, stopping us from straying too far from our intention, and lets us know when we are done. If you don’t know where you are going, how will you know when you have arrived?
 
Second, honor your mood. How we feel emotionally has a profound effect on our paintings. Some days we are up and others down. If you began a painting in a serious mood, trying to pick up where you left off while in a giddy mood can prove disastrous. Remind yourself of how you felt when you started the painting and try to work on it again when in that mood.
 
Third, associate a type of music to the painting, or remind yourself of what you were listening to when initially painting. The tempo of the music can prove very helpful in getting you back into the mood of the painting.
 
Fourth, revisit the subject matter of the painting. If it is a location near you, go back and spend some time, even if the time of day or year is different. If you're using photographic reference, leaf through other images from the scene as a reminder of the day.
 
Finally, associate another artist’s work to the painting that you find exciting or wish to emulate. Spend some time reviewing a book or magazine with these images. This is not for the purpose of copying but for the inspiration and permission someone else’s work can offer. If they can approach it that way, or leave it that way, so can you.
 
All of these tips play on our senses and often rekindle the initial motivation we had for the unfinished painting. If, after employing these tips, the painting is still not speaking to you, it's best to put it aside, rather than forcing the process. Just like a good game of chess requires concentration and strategy, so too does painting. We plan our moves in advance. When the rhythm is broken, it takes some effort to get back in the game.
 
The painting Winter Canal (above) required the use of music and repeated visits to the location to find the inspiration needed to finish.




6/1/2009 3:05:25 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2]
 Friday, May 22, 2009
A New "Old" Fixative
Posted by richard

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Whether or not to use a fixative is one of the most discussed issues in the pastel community. It ranks right up there with rubbing pastel. As I discussed in the 9/16/08 blog post, this is a very personal issue that can affect technique, appearance and conservation.

Historically, fixatives were made of natural resins suspended in alcohol and blown onto the surface. Currently, most fixatives utilize an aerosol propellant and are frequently acrylic-based. Depending on the resin and the means of application, a variety of appearance changes can occur. Individual pastel brands and surface choices also play a role in how the fixative reacts. The most common effect is a general darkening of the overall appearance and a dulling of bright colors. Many painters have simply opted to avoid the use of fixative altogether unless their technique relies on it to facilitate multiple layers of pastel.
 
Recently, I've learned about a new product on the market called Spectrafix. Based on research into the working methods of Edgar Degas, Della Heywood discovered that the most likely fixative he used was casein-based. Casein is milk protein, non-toxic, and considered extremely archival. By suspending it in pure grain alcohol and utilizing a pump mist sprayer, Heywood managed to avoid the environmentally unfriendly aerosol can for this product. The product is available in a 12-ounce pump bottle or in a 2-ounce concentrate that accommodates air travel. The concentrate can then be mixed in a small pump mist bottle with a variety of alcohol-based products. This is a great way for the fixative-utilizing pastelist to travel to those exotic locations without having to compromise their technique.
 
Over the last several weeks, I've put both the premixed and concentrate version of SpectraFix through a series of tests with very satisfying results. First, I wanted to see if it created any major color shifts and darkening effects. After testing the premixed version on a variety of surfaces using various pastel brands, I found little to no change in the appearance of the pastel once it dried. Even when the mist pump bottle created the appearance of larger wet blotches, they disappeared after drying.

Then I experimented with the concentrate, diluted in pure grain alcohol, available from most liquor stores. The information provided with the product as well as on their website list appropriate solutions that can be readily found when traveling. Stronger or weaker dilutions can easily be made with the concentrate, providing a variety of technique possibilities. This will become part of my travel kit in the future, providing flexibility when working away from the studio.
 
After years of avoiding fixative, I can say with confidence that I have found a new tool for pastel painting.




5/22/2009 10:09:43 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6]
 Monday, May 18, 2009
Planting Your Feet in the Same Place
Posted by richard

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With the arrival of spring, many landscape painters’ fancy returns to working en plein air. After spending the bulk of the winter hunkered down in the studio, we find ourselves eager to get back outside to become immersed in the natural light that fills the landscape.

While oil has long been considered the king of plein air painting, and watercolor the perfect travel-sketching medium, many of us consider pastel to be the best choice. It doesn’t require solvents or fluids; finished paintings are not messy to transport; and as quickly as we can open our field palettes, we are painting. The biggest issue is the number of pastels to carry and how to set them up for accessibility and stability—subjects I have addressed in my Pastel Pointers print columns in the June, August and October 2008 issues of The Pastel Journal.
 
There are two motivations when working on location—besides the obvious benefit of working directly from the source—and they are: first, to find inspiration by seeking the new, and second, to return to a familiar location to reinterpret. When heading out to work on location, it's easy to believe that we should always be looking for the new, to be wondering what lies just over the hill. This is the hunting aspect of working on location. It provides the exciting subject matter that motivates and inspires us. Always seeking the new, though, can become a hindrance, diverting us from what can be accomplished by returning to familiar locations.

Last week, after a four-year hiatus, I was able to return to an area with Albert Handell that we have both previously enjoyed (See the photo of Albert Handell, at work in the Redmond, Ore., location we visited four years ago). There was no need to explore. We knew where we wanted to be. We have grown artistically in the interim and the scene had subtly changed, but within a matter of minutes, we had picked up where we left off, as if it were just yesterday that we had painted there. Having this familiarity allowed us to paint with heightened clarity, ultimately leading to multiple paintings.

When we return to familiar territory, we are able to bring our prior experiences into play, leading to more sensitive painting experiences. It becomes an old friend and, even though we might not have interacted with it for a while, we pick up where we left off. This comfort allows us to go deeper.
 




5/18/2009 10:36:03 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]
 Monday, May 11, 2009
A Painter's Guide to Pricing
Posted by richard

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Pricing our paintings can be a confusing issue. These are our creations and, unlike a basic manufactured widget, we have an emotional attachment. Analyzing a few marketing factors and sticking to a pricing system can help.
 
Cost of manufacture: The expenses involved in the production of a painting are many. There is the cost of materials, framing, continuing education, and marketing. All of these have to be factored in at some point. In the beginning, monies will be all going out as you invest in your painting education. As the paintings improve and sales occur, you will start recouping these expenses.
 
Know yourself: Every one of us has a different sense of self worth. Some artists think so little of their efforts that they under-price, while others have an inflated sense of worth, asking grossly inflated prices. If you fall into either of these categories, seeking the advice of gallery owners and other artists you respect can be invaluable.
 
Know your market: Just because your painting is good doesn’t mean it will sell for what it is worth. Markets vary from region to region just like home prices. Understanding your market will place you in a better position to sell, providing money that can be reinvested in materials and continued education. As your ability grows, so will your market. With time, you will be displaying in higher-priced venues and receiving the true value of your labors.
 
Equal pricing across markets: Some venues require no sales commission; others ask for a moderate percentage; and prominent galleries often require as much as half of the selling price in commission. As hard as this can be to accept, it is the reality of higher end representation. They have their overhead and it is wise to remember they are a business, not a museum. Over the long term, they can do a lot to bolster your reputation, leading to higher prices and a greater profit margin. Keeping an even price across multiple sales venues can be an issue. It is advisable to have a standard price no matter what the commission discrepancies may be. If you vary your pricing based on the commission percentage, a patron that paid a higher price at one venue will be understandably upset when they see a comparable painting for sale at a reduced price in another.
 
Size pricing: Most artists’ price by size using a cost by united inch or square inch. For united inch, it is length plus width then multiplied by a value. Square inch is length multiplied by width then multiplied by a value. Here's an example of square-inch pricing: A 16x20 painting (320 square inches) at $5 per square inch equals $1,600. The cost per inch goes down as the size increases. This is due to the fact that a smaller painting can take as much, if not more, effort than a large painting. Since I work in a series of sizes, I have created commensurate pricing which I apply to all markets. If a frame costs a little more, a slight adjustment can be made without creating a huge discrepancy.

Emotional pricing: We all have our “special” paintings. This often leads us to place a higher value than on a comparably sized painting. When a prospective client sees this discrepancy, they sometimes question the quality of the lower-priced paintings. So, when that “special” painting comes along, it is better to hold it back. Keep it for your enjoyment or enter it in competitions instead of inflating its price. When you produce your next best, favorite, “special” painting, place your old favorite back into circulation.
 
My best advice to any artist when asked, “What should I ask for my work?” is to reply: “For what would you be willing to part with the painting?” When it is all said and done, it is between you and the purchaser. If you are happy and they are pleased, it is a successful “win-win” transaction.




5/11/2009 9:52:26 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]
 Monday, May 04, 2009
The Marks We Make
Posted by richard

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Pastel is tactile by its very nature. It's the closest thing to dipping our fingers in paint and directly applying marks to a surface. When we hold the pastel stick in our hands we make direct contact with our chosen surface, bypassing the brush. This action creates heightened sensitivity. The texture of the surface and the smoothness or firmness of the pastel stick is felt. Pressure is then adjusted to deposit more or less of the pigment, creating a variety of affects. These gestures and pressures are as individual as the artists making them.
 
When first approaching the medium of pastel and the variety of ways of applying it to a surface, it's often best to copy the techniques of a successful pastel painter you admire. By emulating his or her technique, you learn the artist's methods and, with practice, become comfortable with the medium. After conquering one style, try another. Just as you try out a variety of surfaces and brands of pastels to find what fits your painting personality best, so to should you explore the various ways of applying pastel.

Analyze the strokes of the pastel artists you admire and you will see the individuality each has. There isn’t one “right” way but many: some hatch; others dab; many swipe; and some drift. When hatching, crosshatching, and dabbing, hold the pastel stick like a crayon and make marks with the tip. Make all the marks one direction, varying the colors and values as needed. This creates a hatched appearance and imparts a sense of fragmented broken color and value as well as rhythm and texture.

When adding or altering a color, change the direction of the stroke, creating a crosshatched broken application. This is a good method for blending two colors together without smearing and losing the freshness of the application.

Next try dabbing the pastel stick to create a variety of sizes of marks from small to large. For a painterly appearance, break your pastel sticks into smaller pieces and utilize the side of the sticks to simulate the action of a paintbrush.

Experiment with a variety of pressures, sometimes making definite marks by lifting and setting the stick back down in a various directions and then allow the stick to stay in contact with the surface while dragging.

Play and have fun. Don’t make the experiment about a finished painting. Instead, focus on gaining tactile experience. Just as no two person’s signatures are the same, so too are the ways in which we apply pastel to surface. With time, your personal calligraphy will become evident, making your work uniquely your own.
 
The image above shows an example of hatching, dabbing, crosshatching, and swiping strokes.




5/4/2009 10:23:45 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1]
 Monday, April 27, 2009
Art Books: What's On Your Shelf?
Posted by Richard

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We're all curious about the contents of other artists' studios. How are things laid out? What type of lighting is employed? What color are the walls? But one of the most interesting questions is: What art books do they keep on hand?
 
Books can play a valuable role in the success of an artist. They carry on a lineage of information passed from one generation to the next. A debt of gratitude is owed to those industrious teachers and painters who felt the need, or desire, to take pen to paper and place their observations, understandings, and experiences down to enlighten future generations.
 
Western art has had a long history of influential artist/authors and much has been made of the opinions they expressed. As valuable as these works can be, however, it's imperative that we place them in the context of their time. Scientific knowledge evolves, providing heightened understanding of the way we see and the phenomenon of light. Tastes change. What was acceptable in one time becomes passé and trite in another. However, the core observations and reasonings of these writers retain importance. As scholars instruct: if we don’t learn from the past, we are destined to repeat it.
 
Through study of these “text books” on the craft of painting, we create our own way, adapting what we read into our process. With time we shed dependency upon them for the “answers” of how to paint and instead rely on them as comforting reminders of art foundations—of the “why” certain things work in our paintings. They become the combined observations of many generations, providing a pool of information upon which we form our individual beliefs.

Personally, I have few historic favorites on the subject of landscape: Carlson's Guide to Landscape Painting by John F. Carlson, published in 1929 (the landscape painters’ bible); Landscape Painting by Birge Harrison, published in 1909 (a series of impromptu lectures given to the Art Students League summer school in Woodstock, N.Y. (Harrison was a teacher to Carlson); and The Art of Landscape Painting in Oil Colour by Sir Alfred East, published in 1906 (an interesting, highly informative read filled with strong opinions). Another must have is: Composition, Understanding Line, Notan and Color by Arthur Wesley Dow, published in 1899 (an eye opening exercise in design). Acquiring copies of these books use to require a treasure hunt through used bookstores. Now with book-find sites on the Internet and public domain publishers, picking up out-of-print treasures can be a mouse click away. Digital versions are also becoming accessible as PDF files that are easily downloaded to a computer. Check out “Google Books” or do a web search for available copies.

Today's art publishers, such as North Light Books, continue to provide instructional art books filled with sage advice for the beginner to the advanced. Many of these will undoubtedly become the treasured studio guides to a future generation of painters.
 
What are your favorite "historic" art books? Your favorite contemporary art books? Please share highlights from your personal library by posting a comment here.




4/27/2009 1:58:43 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [16]
 Monday, April 20, 2009
Determining Value
Posted by richard

90-determining-values.jpgRelating value (the relative lightness and darkness of things) to color can be a tricky exercise. When color is intense (high in chroma), this becomes even more of a challenge. Since chroma is easily related to brightness, it's common to associate lightness to it as well, leading to value confusion. This is usually the culprit when we're having a hard time associating a proper value to a given pastel stick. Grayed tones become much easier to identify. The color is diminished, allowing for the value to be easily distinguished.
 
It is worth noting that if you're use to working with oils or other wet media, you may have a distorted mental image of base pigments. Since oils are wet, the base pigment often appears darker, often by as much as two values, and richer in appearance. Think of this like a rock viewed in a stream bed. When wet, it is a jewel, filled with rich lush colors. Once dry it appears dull, lacking the luster that initially drew your attention. This explains why all those rocks I picked up as a child along the streams that ran through the woods of Oregon were nothing more than rocks when I pulled them out of my pockets hoping to impress my mother. To better understand the change in the appearance of pigments when they're wet or dry, compare burnt sienna straight from an oil paint tube to pure burnt sienna in pastel form (which has not been affected by the addition of white or black). Most manufacturers will indicate pure pigment on their labels or printed color charts. After witnessing the difference many pastel artists decide to work in a higher key, raising the value scale and avoiding overly dark pastel applications. Traditionally black pigment was added to pure base colors to darken them and this produced dead dark tones. Today many manufacturers are combining rich dark pigments in the making of their darker pastels, providing much richer darks.
 
Training the eye to see value and to not be overwhelmed with color takes time. The best advice I have in arranging pastels by value is to make marks of the color on white, black and middle gray (something close to halfway between white and black), or on a value scale representing no more than nine values between white and black. Then close one eye and squint way down. If the mark nearly disappears, it is close in value. If it stands out as noticeably lighter or darker, you'll have a better idea of where it resides on the value scale. See, for example, in the illustration above, how—when you squint—the red is close to value 6, the blue is close to value 3 and the yellow is close to value 9.




4/20/2009 1:49:53 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3]
 Monday, April 13, 2009
A Warm Undertone
Posted by richard

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In representational landscape painting, one of the most universal practices is to begin the painting on a warm brownish undertone. Historically, artists worked either on a grisaille (gray) or burnt brown earth tone. Working on a toned surface helped to create a balance between overly light paintings produced on a white surface and overly dark paintings begun on a near black surface.

Since painting is a visual exercise, we respond to what we see in front of us. The same mark that appears dark when made on a light surface will appear light on a dark surface. We see the mark in context and adjust accordingly. By beginning with a middle-value toned surface, painters had better control over the value range in the painting. Color also played a big part in their choices. This visual phenomenon is referred to as “simultaneous contrast” (which I wrote about in a previous blog). In simple terms, it implies that everything is affected by what it's next to. It appears to take on the opposite of what surrounds it. Something looks lighter on dark, darker on light, warmer on something cool, and cooler on something warm. If you want a pinker face, wear a green shirt. Try it!
 
Due to simultaneous contrast, we will produce a warmer painting when working on a warm toned surface. Not because of the warm tone showing through, although it doesn’t hurt, but because every mark we make will look cooler and we will naturally gravitate to a warmer choice of the hue. When the surface is completely covered, without any of the undertone showing through, a warmer color harmony will have been produced. There are scientific and psychological reasons we are more comfortable with warmer paintings. The one thing that threads a landscape together is “shared light.” Daylight light is much warmer than we often think. We become overly concerned with local color, ignoring the effect of light throughout the scene. Even the greenest and bluest of spring days are saturated with light. I am not advocating overly warm/hot renditions of the landscape but a heightened sensitivity to the prevailing temperature of the light.

We also feel calmer and more secure in a warm environment. This is why warm paintings out-sell cool paintings. Good examples of cool, green, blue landscapes can be found in the works of English artist John Constable, who painted on a burnt red/brown toned surface. His work influenced the Barbizon School of French landscape painting which became the foundation of plein air painting as we know it today.
 
If you are finding your landscapes to be lacking a natural sense of daylight, try working on a warm surface. The sky will still be blue and the trees green but the harmony of the completed painting will be biased by warmth, producing a more natural appearing landscape. It really is all about the light!

For more pastel information and instruction
DVD: Painting a Landscape in Pastel
All 2008 issues of The Pastel Journal on CD
Read more articles about working in pastel





4/13/2009 10:03:36 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4]
 Monday, April 06, 2009
On Location in Tuscon
Posted by richard

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Many of us live in areas that don’t provide easy plein air experiences in the winter. The days are too short and the weather too damp for pastel work—not to mention the inhospitable temperature. It's during these times that we all long for a painting vacation to some inspiring, warm environment.

Just as the depression of winter was starting to take hold this year, I was able to arrange a plein air workshop in southern Arizona, in the Tucson area—a place I had never visited before (see photo). The desert has always held a particular fascination for me: California’s Mojave, northern New Mexico’s Pueblo country, and eastern Oregon’s rugged high desert have provided many hours of painting inspiration. Something about the textures and rhythms of the rugged earth and industrious vegetation combine with the wide-open expanse, making for unlimited painting possibilities. So, with great eagerness, I set off for Arizona. Fortunately, I was able to connect with artist friends upon arriving in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area and they graciously showed me the sights. It is worthwhile to make contact with local plein air painters when visiting an unfamiliar area for the first time. They know where all the good painting locations are and days of aimless wandering can be avoided. This also provides artist camaraderie as so much of our time painting can be spent in isolation. It's a pleasure to spend time with “our tribe.” After checking out the local art scene of Scottsdale (one of the major art markets in the United States), it was off to Tucson.
 
Upon arriving, it became clear why many artists have been drawn to this rugged and majestic landscape. The city sits at the base of the beautiful Catalina mountain range. With the intense reflected light off the desert floor, it's a nonstop kaleidoscope of value and color variation. Dry river washes that attest to the volume of water produced during the monsoon season, and the abundant varieties of cactus and desert vegetation provide a stunning foil. But it didn’t take us long to be reminded of the dangers of extreme desert painting: cactus needles that could penetrate the strongest of shoes required pliers for removal; rattlesnakes easily blended into the terrain; and ornery wild pigs left hoof prints as a reminder they were near. Curious coyotes peaked up over the ditches as we packed in for the day. All this played a part in the experience. It was a reminder to do research in advance of wondering off towards that beautiful inspiration when visiting unfamiliar locations. We definitely weren’t in Kansas anymore!
 
If you love to work en plein air and winter gets you down, try visiting the Southwest. The key of light is high and the color harmony muted with a gray that threads it all together. You won’t be disappointed. Summer in this region of Arizona is another matter: I was assured that even a pastel stick could melt!




4/6/2009 11:33:55 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5]
 Monday, March 30, 2009
Can This Surface Be Saved?
Posted by richard

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When a painting just doesn’t work out, is there a way to salvage the surface?

Even with the best of efforts, some paintings just don’t work out. Whether due to an unclear concept, poor composition, faulty drawing, bad value relationship, lack of color harmony, or a combination of these, nothing we attempt can resurrect it from the mountain of failed attempts every artist produces. As frustrating and depressing as this can be, remember that more is learned from these attempts than from a safe painting.

Embracing this philosophy may help our artistic outlook but doesn’t negate the monies invested in materials. As a medium, pastel (compared to wet paints which dry out and have to be disposed of) can prove quite cost effective. Considerable investment might be made in the purchase of large assortments of colors and brands, but they last. It’s the surfaces we go through quickly. To justify working on the best supports, while still providing food for the table, many of us look for ways to recycle failed paintings.
 
Depending on the surface, most of the pastel on a failed painting can be removed, allowing for a fresh layer to be applied. To avoid inhaling the dust, however, it's best to avoid brushing off the pastel. If extremely heavy layers of pastel need to be removed, place a trough under the bottom edge of the upright painting. Gently drag a painting knife or flat edge utility blade down the surface, allowing the dust to fall into the trough. The best way to remove further pastel dust is to make it wet and use a blotting action. But before you do, consider what the surface can tolerate: water can swell and leave a thin paper or surface wrinkled; alcohol can soften certain binders used to adhere grit to a surface; and mineral spirits can soften certain glues used to mount paper to a backing board. Experiment on a section before committing. Once you feel secure in your choice, lay the painting flat, wet a section and blot the pastel off. Do not rub, as this will inevitably leave fuzz from the rag. This wetting and blotting procedure can be repeated as much as needed until the pastel is lifted off the surface, leaving the paper stained.

Good quality papers and surfaces can take quiet a beating. Artists have described placing them under a faucet in their bathtubs or even taking them outside and spraying them off with a garden hose. What ever works! You’ll notice that certain pigments stain more than others. To avoid the distraction of the ghost image stain, turn the paper upside down so it is not recognizable, and then begin anew. This often leads to interesting possibilities. From something failed, something exciting may arise, and a dollar was saved.




3/30/2009 11:37:11 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6]
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