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 Monday, September 03, 2007
How do you hold your pastel stick and what size are the sticks you use?
Posted by richard
We each find our individual comfort zone when holding and applying pastel, but there are a few factors that will affect the outcome. First, to what surface will the pastel be applied? Every surface accepts the pastel differently and only through experimentation will it be clear how you wish to apply the pastel. Secondly, what brand of pastel is being applied? Some brands of pastel flow like butter onto the surface and others scrape across in a gritty fashion. For this reason most of us, myself included, prefer to have an assortment of brands at our fingertips. The third factor is how much pressure will be used, and this is the thing we have the most control over. Inherently, we might have a light touch or a heavy hand, but with practice, can learn to control the pressure applied. Facilitating a varied touch will allow for a variety of applications. ![6-stick-image[1].jpg](http://pastelpointersblog.artistsnetwork.com/content/binary/6-stick-image%5B1%5D.jpg) To hold the pastel stick, I use a “three finger” hold. I came to pastel having worked in oil for a number of years and this influenced my technique. I wanted the pastel to go onto the surface like a brush applying paint and found that by holding the stick between my thumb, forefinger and middle finger I was able to utilize its side for broad strokes. If I rock it up slightly, I create a hard and soft edged stroke. If I tip it up even more and work with the forward edge and dab it, I create smaller dashes. These motions all related to common brushwork I'd been using in my wet painting that have stayed with me all of these years. As for the size of the sticks, my choice varies depending on the size of strokes desired. Most of the pastel pieces in my cases range from a third- to a half-stick (for an average size major pastel brand, about an inch to an inch-and-a-half). For a larger painting I would use larger pastel sticks. This may be why most of my paintings range from 9x12 to 18x24, as the sticks I have allow for strokes that work well within that size. As I said at the start, we each come into our own technique with time and experience. Mine is to think like a wet painter and apply the pastel as if it were a brush stroke. A nice side effect of this is that my oils and pastels are hard to tell apart because they both retain a similar application, which represents my style. If you have questions for Richard, make a comment here on the blog, or email your question to The Pastel Journal editors at pjedit@fwpubs.com
9/3/2007 5:03:53 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, August 27, 2007
What do you mean by the value scale of the landscape?
Posted by richard
When I refer to the value scale of the landscape, I'm referencing the amount of illumination in the landscape. So much of what I teach is generalized and this is no different. Every lighting situation is diverse and should be evaluated separately. Having said that, I want to stress the importance of seeing natural outdoor lighting differently from controlled interior lighting. Sunlight and the reflected skylight are very strong and generally create a higher key—brighter saturated illumination. Most of us started painting in an indoor situation either from the still life or portrait. We learned about light falling on form and how to relate this to a value scale running from black to white—with black representing the absence of light and white the most intense reflective light. A numbering system is often attached to this scale, facilitating the ability to reference values in our notes. I've always used 0 for black and 10 for white. Other artists have reversed the numbering but I prefer 0 for black, as it represents the absence of light, and 10 for white representing 100 percent light; it just seems logical for my way of thinking. Using this scale we find that 5 is middle value. Since most of us were taught to use this scale, we bring its influence outdoors and relate it to what lies before us in the landscape. This will almost always produce darker paintings that are more kindred to the interior still life than the highly illuminated landscape. For this reason, I've encouraged students to represent the dark masses with value 3, moving the middle value from 5 to approximately value 6.5. Darker accents may be added later that fall below value 3.  By moving the scale up to a range of 3 to 10, and massing in the major values representing the dark, middle and light, I end up with a more illuminated painting that better communicates the natural light found in nature. The true job for us all is to see light accurately. By using a value scale, we might better see that light! “Color is an inborn gift, but appreciation of value is merely training of the eye, which everyone ought to be able to acquire.” — John Singer Sargent
8/27/2007 2:21:07 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, August 20, 2007
What governs my choices for an underpainting: Part 2
Posted by Richard
 In continuing the conversation about underpaintings from the previous blog, I now come to concerns of color and value. Such visual aspects affect our choices when we begin to place the pastel on top of an underpainting. (To understand why things look a certain way when placed on top of something else, refer to my earlier blog entry about simultaneous contrast.) Everything we see shares a relationship, and by setting up the foundation of the painting, I can better facilitate what I want the upper layer of pastel to look like. Since I have to deal with this foundation when the pastel application begins, the choices I make will have ramifications. Set yourself up for what you want to do with the pastel. For example, if I want to paint the shadow shapes, I'll underpaint lighter, and so on. Many artists use complementary color choices in an underpainting to add luminosity to the finished painting. I like to use this in some areas and go for the local color in others. Over the years I've experimented with many underpainting techniques for my pastel paintings, which has led to my current method of working on a sanded pastel surface. I begin with a drawing, followed by a loose, wet underpainting. My favorite underpainting methods are: pastel spread with water; watercolor; or washes of oil paint, thinned with mineral spirits. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. Since liquid swells most surfaces, I work on pre-mounted paper or a very rigid prepared surface. Here's an exercise I like to give students to strengthen their intuition when making choices for underpaintings: Select a subject you have painted many times—not something intimidating or new. Work up a series of small paintings of this subject using different underpaintings. Start with one on a black surface, then a white surface, a mid-value warm orange surface, and a mid-value cool, blue/violet surface. After working on these flat-toned surfaces, try painting the same subject by blocking in major areas, utilizing color and value variations. Working on a white surface, do an underpainting in which you work with only a warm and cool tone, such as burnt sienna and ultramarine blue; then another in which you utilize opposite colors under the major color masses, such as a rose color under the blue sky; and finally, an underpainting in which you paint however you please. When it comes to these choices, it's up to each artist to find his or her own personal voice. By trying many things—and going through a lot of product!—you'll have a stronger intuition the next time you decide to underpaint. I used a black surface for Saffron Crowns (pastel on grit board, 16x20) above.
8/20/2007 6:07:37 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, August 13, 2007
What governs my choices for an underpainting?
Posted by richard
Fir Island Afternoon (left; pastel on Wallis white museum-grade paper mounted
to Museum board, 14x18) by Richard McKinley
Deciding to employ an underpainting is a matter of personal choice.
Many artists work directly with pastel on a toned surface, while others
choose to block in sections to create a substructure that they will
then respond to with pastel. I encourage students to consider what they
see themselves doing with the pastel. The underpainting serves as a
setup for the application of pigment much like the foundation of a house supports what lies above. When employing an underpainting it’s easy to put in too much, so keep reminding yourself that it’s the setup—the underlying foundation upon which the pastel painting will be built. There are many different techniques that can be used in the underpainting or setup phase. We each develop our own individual process through experimentation and exploration of various surfaces and products. It’s important to follow good archival practices when experimenting. The first factor to consider is the surface. Some surfaces won't accept certain chemicals and some mediums will fill the tooth of the surface, thus impeding the application of pastel. So, before starting your masterpiece, be sure to experiment on a scrap of the surface to make sure it will accept the underpainting and allow for the subsequent application of pastel. The next major decision is whether to use pastel for the underpainting or to employ another medium. Many artists opt for a mixed-media approach, applying the underpainting in watercolor, gouache, liquid pigments, acrylic or even thin oil paints. If using pastel, harder brands often work best, allowing for the staining of the surface without filling the tooth. Depending on the surface, pastel may be spread dry or diluted with a wet solution such as water, rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. For most methods that use water, the paper should be pre-mounted or of a heavy enough stock to withstand the swelling and wrinkling that may occur. No matter which method you end up using, remember to keep the underpainting as thin as possible, in order to retain enough tooth for the application of pastel. That’s just the start of my considerations for an underpainting. In next week's blog, I’ll talk about my process for selecting color and value for an underpainting. This underpainting (at left) for Fir Island Afternoon (above) was done in watercolor. A step-by-step demonstration of the painting appears in the book Painting with Pastels by Maggie
Price.
8/13/2007 4:45:29 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, August 06, 2007
Why have a section for “neutrals” in your pastel palette?
Posted by richard
 My palette is like an extension of my arm. Like a surgeon reaching for a tool, I want to organize my palette in a way that allows me to paint with familiarity and skill. I decided, therefore, to organize my palette to represent the color wheel and value scale. The first part was easy; I organized the pastels by color families, beginning with the family of yellow on the left and working my way across to green. Then I organized by value, placing the lightest value at the top of the palette—because light lifts—and the darkest value at the bottom, creating weight. Then, off I went. And paint I did! Over time I evaluated my finished pastel paintings and came to the conclusion that I really like color—a lot! So, after giving it considerable thought, I decided what was missing in my color selection was sensitivity to chroma, which is the relative intensity or weakness of an individual color. There are plenty of weaker colors in every color family, which I had placed in their family of origin within the palette. Because of “simultaneous contrast” (refer to my previous post), these colors appear grayer and weaker when compared to the brighter tones. As a result, they were often overlooked. We all like the “eye candy” and are drawn to the bright luscious hues that lay before us. Me too. Given the choice, I would select one of the brighter tones, unconsciously filling my paintings with overly saturated colors—making for a garish finished result. To prevent this, I decided to segregate these weaker colors (what I refer to now as the “neutrals”) to the far right side of the palette, thus allowing them to cohabitate among their kindred weaker tones. It was only then that I truly saw the potential waiting in each stick. Like that surgeon, I continue to hone my skills and hopefully more patients will survive!
8/6/2007 11:23:45 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, July 30, 2007
What does "simultaneous contrast” mean?
Posted by richard
Simultaneous contrast is a term used to describe a visual phenomenon. Everything in the visual world has a relationship. By understanding these relationships, we’ll make better choices and end up with paintings that better relay the natural world around us. The mind makes judgments from the information provided by the eyes, so it’s imperative to learn to see with sensitivity. Simply put, simultaneous contrast teaches us that everything is affected by its opposite. Something will look lighter when placed next to something dark, and warmer when placed next to something cool, and visa versa. I’m fairly tall (6’3”) and in most situations I appear tall, but if I’m on a bus with professional basketball players, I appear short. I didn’t change, but my context did. When we paint, areas of shadow and light get us into trouble because we attach black and white to them. But look at the scale of value relationships, and you’ll see that what appears to be a highlight in one area becomes a shadow in another. It didn’t change, but its relationship did. Simultaneous contrast also applies to color relationships. A color might appear cool in one setting and then warm in another due to the relationship it shares with the adjacent colors. This is why the choices we make when painting have ramifications. It’s all about relationships. “Simultaneous contrast is not just a curious optical phenomenon; it is the very heart of painting.”-- Josef Albers (German artist/educator; 1888-1976)  In this value scale, representing black to white with a middle value running through the middle, notice how each side of the individual values change; the middle value strip looks darker or lighter depending on its relationship to the other values. Richard McKinley is a painter, workshop instructor and contributing writer for The Pastel Journal. To ask a question about painting concepts and pastels techniques, email The Pastel Journal at pjedit@fwpubs.com with "Pastel Pointers" on the subject line.
7/30/2007 10:56:23 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Welcome to the Pastel Pointers Blog!
Posted by richard
 During a conversation with Anne Hevener, the editor of The Pastel Journal, I mentioned that I get a lot of email from painters inquiring about pastel materials and techniques, and that I often find myself answering the same questions. Anne proposed the idea for a blog in which I might regularly respond to painters' questions, realizing that if one person is wondering about something, there are many others wondering the same thing. So I'm happy to announce the new "Pastel Pointers" blog. I will be adding a new post on a weekly basis offering tips and how-to help based on my own experience over many years of pastel painting. If you want to be notified of each new post, sign up for a reminder by e-mail or subscribe via RSS feed under "Free Updates" at the top of the navigation bar at left. As for my own background, I was born in the Rogue Valley of Oregon and spent my youth growing up with the rivers and mountains that form this special place. It is from these subjects that I receive the inspiration for my paintings, which I paint on location. I paint in both pastels and oils, and travel regularly across the country and internationally to teach workshops. I'm a signature member of The Pastel Society of America and a Distinguished Pastelist with the Pastel Society of the West Coast. My work is represented by William Zimmer Gallery in Mendocino, Calif., and the Mockingbird Gallery in Bend, Ore. For more information, visit my website. If you would like to send questions to me for a potential blog post, send your question to The Pastel Journal by email at pjedit@fwpubs.com.
7/25/2007 11:29:20 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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